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The engine bay does not appear to have been cleaned and the surfaces of the block that are visible appear dry. There is no indication of oil leaks and there is no noticeable blow-by on idle from the crank case vent (no slobber tube attached). The top of the front axle pumpkin also appears dry...

bought turbo off an auction site from Delawarelister for 300 bucks. Came in unopened OEM box.

Some is just coolant spill from refilling the rad. The longer tracks on the block are oil traces from the leak before I re-torqued the head nuts. I will clean them up, but I wanted to see if there was more coming down in the same areas. There isn't. I broke a wire on the EGT probe somewhere and...

How can this happen? I am unclear on this also. The in-tank pump provides fuel to the auxiliary fuel pump at the injection pump. It is a low pressure affair. Not sure how this would get fuel into the crankcase, unless something else is defective (e.g. a leaking, not bypassed FDC) that would also...

Last year my trusty LDT developed a knock, started to misfire/"pop" and became harder and harder to start. I decided to swap it out for a takeout LDS. Project creep led to a major refresh of the LDS before it went in and also the Waterloo 5th gear OD modification to the Spicer 3053A. If you...

I re-ringed the 3-ring pistons that were in the engine; they checked out ok. Engine was already rebuilt once by Continental.

Update: Pulled valve covers and valve train and re-torqued as per posted sequence with 130 +5 (135) ft.lbs (184 Nm). It needed it! While 2/3 of the nuts were still tight to spec, about 1/3 was about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose. That is after 3 or 4 heat cycles. I had torqued them correctly upon...

The leak seems to be from the HG behind the exhaust manifold (of course; anywhere else you could actually see it!!). There is a chance it is the valve cover, but I doubt it. Oil pressure on the rebuild is really good, runs at around 90 psi when fully loaded.

Block surface checked for flatness, factory-new heads, new-style headgasket (latest). Non-TD block. Torqued in stages up to 130 ft.lbs. During second hour of operation I wailed on it a bit more. I noticed ok EGT (1100) but the turbo happily boosted to 15 psi and a bit beyond. I eased up and...

Cause and effect....easy to get pushed down the wrong path. It *could* be a temperature thing, but it is more likely a time issue. It has enough fuel to run for a few minutes, then it shuts off. Coincidentally, it also warms up while it runs. I would strongly suspect a supply problem that allows...

Installed rebuilt LDS-465-1A with modified transmission behind it (Waterloo OD). Replaced a hard brake line. Hooked everything up (clutch adjust, throttle adjust etc.) First test drive today! Absolutely awesome! Some minor fixes to do, install fan and brush guard, adjust brakes and start...

Not to add to your woes, but the CTIS has been unreliable, even when the trucks were still on active duty. The original tires are prone to internal breakage from sitting without air often and/or for prolonged periods of time. That makes the original A3 tires a risky proposition with regards to...

As for wheel bearings: If, after a drive of 30 mins or more, they just get warm - i.e. you can leave your hand on the hub for several seconds without fear of getting burned - I would not obsess about it. I would take action if a hub gets too hot to touch for any length of time.

Did you measure with the engine running and/or air pressure over 60 psi present?

It amazes me....the two batteries in series have sufficient power to weld metal - or set the truck on fire. The battery cables are often a weak spot...chafing, age etc. and I really hope that people recognize how dangerous this is on a truck without electrical master switch/battery disconnect...

Never too late to revive an old thread. Perhaps there is some newer info that can be shared. Someone MUST have put a Pacbrake in by now!!

Thanks for the pics and the link.....ROKON....what a cool bike! :-)

I remember talk of a civilian Spicer box from that era that would have a better overdrive, but what I recall is that they are made from unobtainium. That would be the Spicer 3053"B" transmission. It has a longer first gear 4.5:1 and a longer overdrive at .75 :1 . There is some info here...

First off, thanks to all of you who have helped me with wisdom and insight during what was (umm..still is) my biggest, most involved Deuce project so far. Rustystud, gimpy, gringeltaube and many others provided crucial tips when I needed help. I put a couple of clips into my "starter" thread...

I had a tach gauge fail the way you describe. Also, tach cable can fail in interesting ways - it can break and the the broken ends can still interlace to create some movement on the other side. It could fool you into thinking the cable was good. Hold one end while spinning the other should...