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The issue is most folks have no idea how to wire anything in a military truck, or in my case most of the time, hmmwv’s...front battery with body grounds, wrong size wire, no split loom, no fuzed power sources...had a truck that had all the wires run to the rear tie rapped to the e-brake rod...

27yrs in Telecommunications as an Engneer for Nortel, at the mfg level. As well as 48v power plant design.

So AM General engineered the 12v side of the truck wrong....hmmm, I doubt it.

you are free to believe whatever you want...

you can’t leave the Tcase in the truck...it’s attached to the trans

I have this same issue on a truck..,just haven’t started to work on it. My 2 trains of thought were voltage or failing PS pump. i might go with the thermostatic switch first...but it seems to engaged only at higher RPM’s, so I’m thinking it not that. the Cadillac valve solenoid was quite gummed...

Ahh, sorry, website is still under construction...my inventory changes constantly, so Best is to call the shop or PM me here. i have no boxes right now...they are getting difficult to get as Nartron and KDS went to battle, seems Nartron won out and all new boxes will be Nartron only, and they...

Who’s website?

The trucks coming out of auction all have the drain tube removed during rebuild...thus no drain. this is only on the rebuilt motors..which is about 99% of them. My trucks with original motors are intact. They install a plug in the hole so no water drains to the top of the torque converter...

cut the wires off, use a 6 point socket, use propane torche to heat it up, it has sealant on the threads.

coolant has a higher boiling point then water...so,less coolant is NOT better, that’s why a 50/50 is a good starting point.

Cold advance switch, normally closed circuit, has 24v to the injection pump, at 120 degrees, opens and retards the pump timing, when energized, advances timing for easy starts and better cold running. ive had numerous smoke over the years, just replace it. In the mean times unplug the leads.

You should always use the ground to the rear battery for disconnect switch on a HMMWV, and military vehicles with 24v in general.

If you look in the TM, the winch is wired to the pos and negative on the starter...this makes the ground go through the shunt.

when did you buy? Did you buy it from us? If so, send it back and will get you out a new one...I’ve seen this issue on trucks without the Guard Dawg installed, the ignition switch was bad, on another truck, the solenoid was bad on the truck.

I’ve had same issues many years go...the wire from the sender had a high resistance short, I ran a separate wire and it fixed the issue. you can do same to test it....just run if from the sender to gauge, see if the issue goes away.

The seal is leaking...

The 14v tap is grounded to the Gen case per the TM for detuned truck applications...meaning, if your truck is not an A2, it gets grounded. now...I’ve installed tons of these gens in A0/A1 trucks, I’ve never grounded the 14v tap and they work just fine.

Get rid of those battery connectors and get the correct version and the OEM cables, or have them made up with the lug terminals on them.

Guys, killing the ground on the rear battery should and will render EVERYTHING dead....no switches will work, this is the safest way to perform ANY electrical work on the truck.