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Template?? Use the drawing below to make your own! PM me if you need more details, or want me to e-mail the original version in bmp. G.

Yes, normally with duals the thimbles hold the inner wheel against the drum surface, so that "gap" would be irrelevant. Now my idea was to mount a single wheel AFTER firmly screwing-on the original thimbles (eventualy shortened a few mm) and then use the large lug nuts to hold the wheel in...

That's fine! [thumbzup] BTW: from my own (short) experience I know it is very difficult to build them to run perfectly true... within 1/16 of an inch, or say 1.5mm max. runout, measured where the bead seats. Have you ever checked lateral runout on yours? G.

Short conclusion: NO WAY! Just can't imagine how others did this if they re-used the original thimbles - this simply doesn't work since most of the variants out there will bottom out on the stud even BEFORE the "bulge" or flare comes to seat against the wheel hub mounting surface. Attached pic...

Yes, he will know for sure! Also, from my very first concept drawings on (which I found out later, "someone" - not me - had edited, (obviously for his own interest!), probably to hide some of the dimensions shown, .......... see...

:ditto: Nice! One interesting application for sure would be cutting your own stencils to (re)paint-spray bumper & hood markings and safety warnings like TP, DRAIN AIR TANKS DAILY, etc. Maybe give it a try and let us know when you are ready to sell some....?:wink: [thumbzup] Suggesting a...

See my post here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/ss-main-site-improvements-updates-suggestions/70165-old-site-down-again-sorry-i-hope-have-new-tm-section-up-soon.html#post854621 G.

Get the connectors and make your own... including improvements like adding work light for cargo area, a keyed switch on dash, a circuit for 12V accessories, wire & switch for backup lights, etc.... G.

You got it right.... but that description you had suggested is wrong (not great) and should be corrected.... IMHO G.

sae#2, 100%! G.

Great......... now please read again and try to understand how it really works.... :? Near the top of the compression stroke, 27 degrees before top dead center (btdc), fuel is injected by the fuel injector nozzle. A small amount (five percent) of injected fuel is deposited as a thin film on...

Where are you buying? Those are not specific but std commercial parts: Cup (x2) = #3920; inner cone = #3994; outer cone = #392. The #3994 may not be that common, nevertheless they should be available online and/or at parts stores selling good brand bearings like Timken, SKF, NTN, etc. Avoid...

That's clear. Guessing it will be +/- 2mm to be cut off, prolly most of the chamfered edge. Also to be determined how much thread is left inside the thimble before the stud bottoms out. Will see what it does.... G.

Agree 100%! It just came to my mind that it should be a fairly simple solution to slightly modify those thimbles: put them in a lathe and remove just enough material from the edge to allow the wheel center to fully seat against the hub flange. That way one could not only reuse the original...

Laminated safety glass, clear, 745mm x 533mm x 6.3mm; have it cut and do install it yourself... G.

That's correct. From having seen many high-mileage "junk" T-cases inside, abused and worn out: these dog clutch halves are well designed and virtually indestructible. The picture below shows parts that came out of a TC that was going to be scrapped! So even if the switch was accidentally...

Spindle diam., threaded portion: 2.433" (61.8mm) Nut inner diam.: 2.375" (60.3mm) TPI: 16 G.

Yes, they are..... G.

Thanks for the kind comments; just hoping to see many others doing this same conversion - with same good results, besides a clean look....:) Just another link here for more pics and info on the same subject, since those other links above don't work any longer...

I still had my hopes up high....... this was going back to 7.3 Navistars into M35s...:roll: G.