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My favorite 275 combo. With 750.

Resolved. Reseated all three cables at the WTEC3 controller behind the passenger kick panel and normal operation resumed. Amazing how even with gold terminals, resistance can still build up over 20 years and cause the self check ohms to fall out of spec.

Yes. Computer checks for open circuit and short circuit on each solenoid circuit. There are a pair of wires for each solenoid. Neither wire is grounded. Oil is fine, we only forded like 2 feet depth.

Now getting flashing "7" only, no engagement. Code is open circuit to one solenoid. Reseated the connectors at the cab and transmission, no help. Looks like time to break out the ohm meter.

Guys, have not had time to dig into this yet, but lots of times ya'll have been down similar paths and have quick fixes. '98 M1079 with WTEC 3. Shifted great until start of fording ops during 4 hours of high water rescues last night. Symptoms: would not shift out of 2nd sometimes, 7 showing...

If you don't pull the driveshafts, make for sure the transfer is in neutral. I was towing a M221 and either I did not get it in neutral or it jumped into gear. Soon the truck became super hard to pull. I stopped and the Hydramatic was super hot.

Correct, and not all 6 ton trailers either, the 313 and 447 etc were pulled by 5 ton tractors. But they sure look the best behind a 275.

The Army would have NEVER put the fuel trailer behind a 275. Way to heavy. 275's pulled 146, 118, 119 etc.

Question already answered in post #7. Also the flasher module.

Ramps all gone, email sent, suggest anyone needing ramps for a M172 forget the stupid 400 lb heavy military ramps and get commercial aluminum ones.

Yup, my Bragg LMTV has a similar laundry list of deficiencies. Seems like the SOP at Bragg is run it until it won't move and then off to auction.

Should be around the drivers side front spring perch.

Looks like they did not stamp the 0524 part of the serial number.

Maybe not. He has one of the two WTEC plugs, just splice matching color wires (solder with heat shrink, no crimp connectors), find the missing WTEC connector, same. Then the behind the dash harness, he has a cut-off of that as well, seems like armed with the schematic diagram and a test meter...

Yes the one by itself. Looks like a car radio.

Studying the driver's instrument cluster photo, the harness coming from the transmission with the colored wires branches into two as is required for the WTEC II ECU. I think you have the right one.

That's WTEC II ecu.

Hmm, serial number is unusual. What does the data plate above say about what the maximum towed load highway is?

All of those mechanical deficiencies will take a half day to fix. Dead batteries are to be expected. The only reason I would hesitate is if the rust you describe is actual holes in the metal.

Never know until you try. Get the da sander and time for some archeological research. That is your only hope to figure out prior unit assignments.