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Think... NO, no way!:-) Engage... YES, automatically, acting in both directions (via two sprag clutches, Sprag clutch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) and everytime the speed - or call it rpm-difference of the rear driveshaft over the front DS exceedes 8%, in our case. G.

I could understand putting grease nipples on the door pins, WS hinges and who knows where else... but not for the tailgate hinges! That I would consider a 200% overkill! These are not tight-fit parts... and they don't have to be; just the opposite! Take a closer look, hinges are made out of...

Yes for the airshift TC..... But read again post#1, the OP said SPRAG TRANSFER. G.

Oh yes, with the hubs disconnected you can let her roll down the hill backwards without having engaged REVERSE....:p G.

Nice pics, super nice truck![thumbzup] G.

After a closer look... you may be right about it belonging into the bell-crank tube. I can see now, it definitely isn't from the clutch disk; I stand corrected! G.

I think the one that's tapered is a better quality seal. But what really counts is correct dimensions. Put them - rubber down- on a flat surface and measure how tall it stands to the back shoulder: 14mm is OK, 13.5mm could be problematic. 13mm or less won't work at all! ... unless you install it...

Do a simple test with a spare seal, you'll find that It takes considerable force to lift or flip the lip inward while it's pressed against a surface; in our case the bearing race. Think about check-valve principle... All that deflector (#23) does is help preventing oil from a leaking seal to...

See my drawing with dimensions, below. It shows the bearing and seal in correct working position, installed on a A2 spindle & hub. It appears to me that the A3-spindle has not been altered were this seal goes. Anyway you can measure your parts and compare. G.

No push button to start...... My 2cents. G.

As long as you press evenly and only on the crimped inner edge of the seal's metal core until it gets fully seated you should be fine. Still, for some reason something isn't right regarding minimum required interference of the seal lip vs. the outer face of bearing cup #3920. Are you sure...

Tolerable: YES. Easy to fix: YES... Maybe this helps.... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?30475-king-pin-questions.html G.

No, the seal has to be seated properly BEFORE assembly, and that is using an adequate installer tool (you can make one out of an old #3994 bearing cone). I have found & replaced seals that were well distorted - from the moment on they were installed, the wrong way... not sure if that's your...

I would pull out liner #6 and inspect the block to be completely sure... G.

:ditto: Or re-use the original thimbles and corresponding lug nuts. G.

Just in case you need dimensions....: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/46011-m35-bows-dimension.html#post517608 G.

Not a common failure at all.:???: And yes, if the AP slave cylinder is cracked it may leak. ANY leak downstream of the MC means the pedal will go to the floor, sooner or later, if you keep pushing.... G.

Rick, I think there is a mistake in that number, it should be the TM9-2910-226-34 :???: Attached the other one.... G.

LOL... I would gladly do anyways, just to "inspect" the well done, finished job...:-) G.