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Come on Kent, anyone capable of refurbishing his front winch should be able also to do that seat - blindfolded...:p
Don't leave things half-done! Sure enough you'll find some surface rust already present where it never saw any fresh paint. Also cleaning and re-lubricating the adjuster threaded...
Suitable tire sizes, currently being surplussed by the US-Military:
15.5/80R20
395/85R20
14.00R20
16.00R20
All of them are specified to be mounted on 20x10" (industrial) wheels.
G.
sorry Ty, not for these bearings. They are considered obsolete and so far I have not been able to find replacement parts, besides having a few custom made, locally. Not a cheap solution, though.
Dave: I've seen parts looking worse than yours and still working alright.
If the PTO only has to...
Looks to be the right one, although it has seen better days...... :razz:
Angled? If you mean helix cut, NO. Take a closer look and you will see that the pinion teeth are in fact straight cut. Only beveled to one side at their front tip, for the reason described above.
G.
Pic attached... spacer ring, on the left.
Spacer and bolts already came included, and that was back in 2002 when I purchased them from APB.
Only (not minor...!) problem I had with them was not being watertight with the stock dialing knob O-ring.
A V-seal like in the AVM's would be much more...
Sorry but I strongly disagree; actually that size and type of tire is the best you can put under ANY Deuce (or Unimog) IMHO. (I have more than one truck running on Conti's, one set done many K-miles already, with excellent results so far)
.... unless of course you're referring to the surplussed...
...was about to say do-a-search....:p
Take a look here... http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/industry/themes/leaflets_movies_pictures/product_range/download/mpt_radial_tires_brochure_en.pdf
G.
we are drifting off-topic I know... anyways let me help you with this... :-)
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?17472-15-50-14-50-xl-tires-stock-deuce-rims-2.html#post605946
and another drawing below showing both wheel styles and their respective bead profile in real proportion...
At least your TC is not jumping out of gear, which normally is a first sign of serious wear/high mileage.
What kind of noise? If gear whine it could be just bearings gone bad.
I would go step by step, checking everything else around the TC first before deciding to repair/replace the whole...
... and if you do have a WINCH...:-) the cure might be as simple as replacing the seals.
See part#s here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/43545-pto-seal-kit.html#post485461
G.
You are right, there is no way the starter could remain on the left side since bellhousings have to be swapped also.
I had two engines, 5ton LDS465 rebuilt at TEAD, both were equipped with the typical LDT turbo, and both dynoed at 185Hp peak output.
G.
Let me explain this again....: By default the sprag TC operates in AWD - FORWARD (= forward sprag clutch engaged), all the time, with the tranny in NEUTRAL position or ANY forward gear selected, or even the linkage completely disconnected! An internal coil spring keeps it that way.
All the...
Well, the fork only holds the syncro, not the shaft in itself. If this can move that much out (forward) the bearings (two BL 210 Z, one 6310 NR) are long gone, besides other problems! You sure will find the balls plus all kind of bits and chips coming out once you open the bottom drain plug.
G.
A 7/16" wrench and monkey arms.... or Soldier B...? :razz:
It's kind of tricky but you should be able to reach/hold the nuts after folding up the WS. Removing the instrument panel makes it easier.
G.
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