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Yes it is threaded pictures to follow

That is a great question, let me go out to my shop and chuck up one of my scrap IPs in a vice and find out!

The screen should come out with the inlet fitting, sanitary conditions are a must, good luck!

That air box will flow many times what that turbo can pull, no need for modification. EDIT, I am running a stock intake with a Duramax, it of course is monitored by the ECM and it has no issues with the stock intake, the numbers all look good (at up to 475HP) and the Duramax of course flows much...

Sounds like a bunch of hokum to me. Sounds like an internet story, we all know everything you read on the "net" is true.

Look at the serial number listing that is a sticky on this forum, none have letters and they range up over 600.000 most have 6 digits They have serial numbers not vin numbers.

To farther elaborate, all of the old automotive analog gauges (temp/pressure/fuel) work the same basic way, you do not need the particulars of a gauge to do some basic troubleshooting. All analog automotive gauges act pretty much the same or the reverse of the same. That is to say all analog...

You should not replace anything until you have troubleshot the problem to the defective device. Are you getting 24V to the gauge wire 27H? Does the gauge move when the wire to the sending unit is open (removed from sending unit) and or shorted to ground? (wire 33A/B)

You need matched belts for the alternator, the only way to get them is to buy a matched set and pay the HUMVEE tax, you can get close if you hand pick the belts from the same manufacturer with the SAME build date code. Considering how much trouble they are to change I am surprised you want to go...

Someone should chime in with the info you need.

Do you have an alternator with the "high speed" pulley? Some alternators had a smaller pulley so they would make more power at lower RPMs, throws the tach off as that is what the tach reads. EDIT, I think they were used mostly on the 400A alternators.

Make sure the rear side and rear "lips" are tight against the rear of the body, you may have to put a ratchet strap across the back to pull the bottom of the helmet top together so it fits tight against the body before drilling the holes for the rear mounts.

Others can advise on the engine hoist, I use a large commercial "cherry picker", I would think it would be a challenge using something from say Harbor Freight as it is so far from the front of the chassis to the engine

For some reason I thought you had 2.73 gears, back when you were planning complete axle swaps I was hoping to get those diffs. I appreciate the offer but I was looking for 2:73 diffs.

Dang, I guess I will not be getting those pumpkins!! :cry:

The problem is in the civy world there are two carriers, one for 2:73 and down and one for 3:08 and up, the HMMWV uses the 2:73 and down for all applications and the 2:73 and down carrier is rare in the aftermarket world, as almost nobody uses a gear ration that low.

All the carriers for the HMMWV are the same part number so as you found out there is no split in that application.:( EDIT, I wonder if the civy 3.08 gears are different?

It's a doohickey :giggle: The asterisk usually means it is not listed separately, only comes as part of an assembly.

Welcome to the big leagues :)

You need one of these...