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Another example why a thorough inspection by a qualified mechanic is always a good idea. I am very glad this did not cause an accident or injury,,, but it certainly could have.

Unless I was going to restore it for shows as an arctic issue vehicle I would loose all of it, there is not enough room for what you will likely want to do anyway, that WW fluid tank flopping around is not attractive ether. There would never be a real need for it. Besides there may be someone...

They were never meant to be dissembled on the engine, like I said that is just a last ditch effort for someone with nothing to loose

If it is anything like the swingfire used on the Unimogs it is LOUD, that one is a pulse jet, think German V1 rocket!

That link you provided to the TM-9-2320-387-24P clearly stated not for distribution and listed the "owner" of that copy. (was removed) That same TM is available in the TM sticky in the HMMWV forum. Please folks be careful of the links you post!

The check valve in the return fitting on top of the IP has some trash in it allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank while sitting for a long time. Remove the rubber return line, then the fitting and inspect for trash, make sure no trash gets into the IP, it should have a glass ball in it so...

In fact Donaldson makes that filter #P521242 EDIT, looks like it has been discontinued......

That is a Donaldson type housing that is stock on the HMMWV, I would certainly not expose my filter to the wheel well where more dirt, dust and rocks can get into the filter. If you want to stick with the K&N (which I also have a low opinion of because of the maintenance required to keep it...

Yes that would likely be an R1, I am not surprised that a local DMV person in CA would be so stupid not to realize that a non standard "VIN" would likely be duplicated on a different make vehicle but I am very surprised at how many stupid people must have been involved to escalate this to the...

I use asphalt loom, I get it off of fleabay, I would also take the positive off of the bulkhead terminal on the battery box, more work but less stress on the solenoid.

Yes I would remove the lock, it has teeth that are engaged in the cap. I would not try to flow fuel backwards through the pump, there is probably check valves in the charge pump.

The 6.5L was the end of a miserably failed attempt by the gasoline engineers at GM to design a diesel engine. I am not sure who at GM decided to go to folks at Isuzu that REALLY knew diesels to design the 6.6L but that guy deserves a medal, GM went from LESS than 4% of the light duty truck...

WHY?

Not likely, all the transmission control points are the same, if you cannot get codes out of the new TCM and the light just stays on but you could read the old one I would suspect the "new" one is defective. I would likely try a civi TCM from any 4L80E just to see what happens they are a dime a...

When I took it apart it was horizontal like being installed, all that came out is what you see in the pictures, it might be a challenge to get back together in that position. Also the regulator ass, shown in post #8 has the regulator piston, spring and plug in it, you do not want to dissemble...

You should have fuel flow out of the return port especially when running, not allot but flow, this flow cools the IP, but you have to have fuel going to the IP also. If you crack the inlet line is there good flow there? And yes the return check valve sounds normal. should take 2-4psi to open and...

You understand this is a last ditch effort before pulling the IP for rebuild, you want to make DANG sure you have a good fuel supply to the IP, a good voltage source to the IP and as before a clear return line before going into the end of the IP, I have no idea if that cap has some sort of...

Have you pushed the high idle control all the way in and or made sure it was working correctly? Also not likely the wrong pump causing the issue, that is not how an IP works, it will reduce fuel to achieve the correct idle based on a governor output inside the IP. You can pertty much bet it is...

Here are some pictures. there is a "keeper" threaded in at 12:00 to keep the cap from turning. Then three pieces will come out with the cap. the end of the IP will look like this, showing the small charge pump. And it should look like this when it goes back together. I have no idea if...

But before you go any farther you MUST make sure the return is not plugged, there is a check valve screwed into to top of the IP (return fitting) and if it gets trash in it or the return line is plugged it will give you the exact symptoms you have it will start and immediately shut down and then...