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You also need: 6 bolts, hex head 7/16"-14, 1"long 1 plug 1/4" NPT G.

Maybe it's a TC PTO like this one.....

Good point Chuck! I really didn't think about rocking the long lever back and forth x-times before applying ultimate torque to the point of shear... :) But.... do we really see any significant torque in the opposite (reverse) direction, despite the force to overcome the band-brake??? And if so...

If you mean shear strength.... I used to think the same until I did the testing: The final torque value to breakage was about the same for a given material; pin fitted tightly into a cylindrical hole vs. same pin in an oversized, deformed hole. Maybe its comparable to cut (shear) material with a...

Difficult to describe, easy to understand: on flat ground the inner edges at each end of the two lower (longest) spring leaves from the spring pack are (almost, within 1/8") resting against the hardened inserts riveted to the spring perches bolted to each of the tandem axles. The spring packs...

Well..., it does happen! Read here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/41660-oil-overfill-possible-rear-seal-leak.html G.

Don't know about the DOT regulations there but it shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't mix radials and bias on the same axle. Technically it's not. Actually it can help improve handling and safety when running radials on the steer axle and keeping the bias on the rear tandem. G.

The catalogs show the G286 also in 11.00R20 and I think that's the case here...(???) Now what really should be compared is rolling radius or better rolling circumference with tires mounted at correct TP under (normal) load, front vs. rears. Not just O.D. according to catalogs or even measuring...

Wow.... :shock:! That tells us how safe our stock wheels actually are.... when correctly mounted!:) G.

:drool:

I like that! It has always been my plan to retrofit an M105 with modern wide radials. I wasn't sure about sufficient clearance for 14.5s at max articulation/ load so I was going to stay with 12.5s on 1pc 11x20 custom wheels. Now, after seeing your pics I feel more confident... Thanks for...

... no expert either but trying to use info and data collected over the years... :smile: From your first Q., may I assume that that blown tire came off of a Deuce wheel...? The M35 wheel is to narrow for a 12.5R20; the specified rim width is 11". But that is only part of the problem; it is...

From the book (TM 9-2320-386-24-1-1), 0091 00...... G.

Reviving a one-year old thread...... and very curious to know how many of you have found exactly this.......:mad: (pics below) and what the remedy was...:???: BTW, this was probably done at the time and place of overhaul.... (see dataplate) G.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/10771-looking-smaller-deuce-steering-wheel.html, post#9

In case you missed them....: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/23965-non-turbo-deuce-good-bad.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/38464-add-not-add-turbo.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/39189-turbo-finally-added.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/29308-non-turbo-turbo.html G.

... also 2" spacers for the wheels to compensate backspace. G.

I would say a jack only works safely on a good shop floor while with the chainfall method you can do a swap in the middle of nowhere. G.

That shifter to engage the front drive would only make sense if there was a REB-kit installed.... :roll: G.

My turn now..... G.