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Guess it's time to start a new threat now ... or PM me, since this is getting a bit off-topic now !:roll:
How about: TLC for the TC.... or: T-case Seal & Gasket service.... or....
(You will sure get a lot of responses and good tips to both your Qs.)
G.
... your Air-shift: not to bad regarding wear. Possibly mis-treated, judging by the chipped tips.
A complete rebuild would depend on condition of low range side and bearings in general. For peace of mind and if you have the time now........ it sure is a lot of work and a great learning...
Don't worry, your engine was rebuilt to work in a 5ton and it has everything needed to safely power all that extra weight!
Do the swap and enjoy those additional 50 horses!;-)
G.
Remember: KISS..... To my knowledge they had those "cheap" springs as you call them, since M-35s do exist and they usually don't leak.... until cylinder wall corrosion and pitting takes place. Even the best expanders won't help then.
The problem is humidity and condensation occurring behind...
No problem, I will do it for you once I get it into my hands...:smile:
BTW, for those swapping out their sprag T-cases: might check them as described before sending them to the scrap-yard!.... or take a closer look inside that nice takeout air-shift replacement TC of "unknown condition" before...
Before deciding to dig into it deeper, remove the 4bolt top cover. (careful, the shift rod poppet spring is under compression and wants to jump out!)
Shifting into LOW will leave the HIGH RANGE synchro dogs exposed and clearly visible. To be able to inspect the LOW RANGE dogs (when shifted into...
It is as CGarbee said: most of the gears are different so the answer to you Q. is NO.
Take a closer look here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/45428-flip-pto.html, post #7, 2nd pic.
You might consider this add: five ton winch with pto - Steel Soldiers::Military...
........ GREAT - if you take good care to make use of it on slippery ground ONLY.......!?
Don't forget: after that mod., when engaged the rears WILL be pushing (or pulling, in R) the fronts because they turn 8% faster!!
BTW: not exactly the ideal ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE concept IMHO; very...
JG, been there means...: tried to go your route of keeping everything that came from factory for the 5ton MF version to swap as is into a Deuce, obviously by retaining the stock 3053 tranny/PTO and radiator: =>1000 problems, no way to do this practically!
One of four 5ton LDS engines I have...
Find some way to pre-oil the engine but before even attempting to turn it over I would pull the booster pump and check that it turns freely. I had one Tooele rebuilt which had those small gears completely locked in its housing, from using excessive gasket compound, and it sheared the shaft right...
Sorry, I just don't see the need or any advantage at all of using a "puller" in this case. As Tom mentioned the "keys" (split dowels) have to come loose first and that will only occur after hitting the arm from both sides, alternatively. A good penetrant oil surely helps.
Once unseated...
I saw that too - FYI the tool rack can stay in place but it needs to be shortened 6" and some tools re-arranged, plus shovel will have to be 2pc.
Hope I had a better pic....
G.
Have you tried downloading this one?: http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=57
LDS465 Troubleshooting, Part II: all you want to know, very clear and easy to follow step x step procedure, applicable to ALL MF models!
G.
No, the 5ton MF will not go right in, for many reasons....
....but it can easily be converted using some 2.5ton MF-parts, to perfectly fit in a Deuce. That is: get the oil pick-up and cross-over tubes for the oil pump from any 2.5ton model MF and swap them out, then flip oil pan and dipstick...
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