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Yes, considering ALL parts involved it is indeed far more complicated than the mechanical set-up!
As for durability of the whole system..... don't know what the weakest link would be... hyd. motor, pump, lines, hoses? One advantage sure is that the max. oil pressure for the hyd. motor can be -...
.....or read here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?30821-all-dueces-multifuel.html, post #10: David Doyle's description of the MF combustion system...... and what others had to say about (or against) it..... :-P
(BTW I kinda miss him Rolling......... :-))
G.
That Allison transmission may have provisions for a mechanical PTO but the M35A3 doesn't come with such.
The winch motor is driven by a hydraulic pump (NSN 4320014422895) that mounts to the rear of the air compressor.
See diagram. (from TM 9-2320-386-24P, page 350)
G.
YES for replacing the tranny output shaft bearing but not necessarily the pinion bearing.... just pull the bearing retainer and remove one or two of the very thin shims, re-install and check play again, most likely that will solve the problem.
G.
Tiger probably was referring to the complete assys like the one pictured??
For example this kit (Chelsea #328863X) which is not exactly military OD stuff :smile: but does include all fittings, hardware, ind. light, switch, etc. and sure is A#1 quality, " US-made, with pride....":-D
In lack of...
Yes, both ports in Q. get the same full pressure, should be modulating from 100-120psi, non regulated. 90-120 is still normal, mostly depending on the type of press. regulator and its setting.
Air tanks are rather smallish so the engine should be running (around 1500rpm) if you wanted more than...
No problem... always open to suggestions! :-)
In this case the material removed was just about enough to get worn surfaces back straight and even...
One improvement that I would like to (again) suggest to all of you still having "sound" parts: simply add a grease zerk on the upper side of the...
You sure meant the 14.5R20 = 11.00-20 = 43" O.D.
For a (nose-heavy) winch truck put 12.5R20 singles on the front, keep dual 9.00-20s at the rears or better 14.5R20s front/11.00-20s rear.... IMO that IS the way to go when starting with a tight budget...
G.
That's it, studs are all the same, put budd caps or "thimbles" in place of the 3/4"-16 front lug nuts, 2nd wheel on, 1 1/8"-16 nuts, ready......!
Technically not a problem and it has been done and tried many times in my area.... believe me there is no comparison to what single wide radials can...
Glad you found the REAL problem, Bill! :-)
And sure enough next time this happens we will be inspecting for full dog clutch engagement by just looking through that oil fill orifice... before ripping all apart!:wink:
(Just learned something here.... Thank you!:grin:)
G.
Very true! Even maintaining the same backspace (10.5") of the stock M35A2 7.5x20" budd wheel it is obvious that for the 3.5" wider A3 wheel (11x20"), the offset was reduced from 5.75" to now 4". In other words the center line of the entire wheel/tire assy has moved outward 1.75".
Don't know...
Well explained, ALFA2!
Needless to say that with a "normal" PS box set-up we are limited to the shear strength of the 4 studs holding the stock steering arm to the steering knuckle. So far this seems to be the "weak link" of the kind of conversions I have done, although I have not encountered...
If all 6 drums get hot there might be a problem with the master cylinder not allowing fluid to return. Check brake pedal adjustment, return spring, swollen rubber cup, etc.
This has nothing to do with the air governor - which also needs to be re-adjusted.
Read here...
.... "wheel mounting flange to wheel mounting flange"....... right ?????? :roll:
After flipping rear hubs, width betw. flanges changes from 69" to 79".
(To be exact the difference stock to flipped is 4.875"per hub)
Front axle already IS 79".
G.
There are no sprags in that air-shift TC, just a very robust dog clutch. The front half slides on the splined section of the front output shaft, controlled by the fork fixed on the shift shaft which is moved in (engaged) via the small air cylinder/piston and back out (dis-engage) by the internal...
Part#: all I could find is what the picture shows.
This draglink W/ tie rods must be for a particular Ford truck application, at least the back of the joint is stamped with the oval.
The size of the cone is the same as the one from the original Deuce draglink.
G.
I bet both, housing and gear were specifically made for the MF engine; not so the pump, it seems.
So for individuals or if one would start a business providing/installing full PS conversion "kits" for our A2s, one obstacle would be finding these parts and sooner or later somebody would have to...
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