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Very likely POLYPROPYLENE which is used in straps, slings and ropes, for towing, tie down and even lifting purposes, but NOT for vehicle recovery since it's virtually NO stretch!
NYLON is the way to go: with its ability to stretch up to 25% under tension and then retract it would free any stuck...
Maybe it helps reading this: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/36059-air-governor-questions.html
In most cases it's dirt that causes this... after a little TLC it may work again like new (plus you learn how it works!) :smile:
G.
Oops...Bjorn, you were faster once again!:smile:
I do agree with the first part only, of your statement... :-)
Once, after a few hours of HWY driving on a hot summer day I ended with a recently rebuilt and well adjusted clutch slipping badly... even with the drainhole open everything got completely soaked with engine oil. Found out that the...
That's it! Not the nut and not the threaded stud, but both sides of the eye (of the steering arm, draglink, aux.arm, etc.). Striking one side with a big (sledge)hammer while holding a bigger one firmly against the opposite side.
In confined areas getting enough momentum with only one hand can...
You may read this: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/36059-air-governor-questions.html
First try to adjust the cut-out setpoint at 120psi. 100psi max. reading is a bit to low, assuming the instrument is OK.
If problem persists try to identify your air governor type so I can look at mine again...
How do you know it's not just the linkage gone bad and/or out of adjustment? Or something wrong in the front axle? Was the front drive shaft turning?
And if the problem really was INSIDE the TC (bad forward sprag clutch, i.e.) that can be fixed easily! Read this other recent thread...
NO you don't feel anything kicking, engaging/disengaging is very smooth....and NO, nothing stays locked while shifting.... except if you did sin like letting her roll backwards with the tranny in N or any forward gear, especially while turning.... then it may "kick", usually with a loud bang...
Just put these two words in the search function: sprag adjustment
Tons of good info comes up, more than you need to know to make your TC work right.
To mention just a few:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/33527-sprag-case-bad.html...
Emmmmm, not sure........ (scratching my head.... this is very complicated after just a short night and a lot of :beer: so........ HAPPY NEWYEAR TO EVERYONE !:-D)
Tom and tm: 29/42 in place of 22/48 right? OK, for me that would be 29div.42, then multiplied by 42div.28 = 1.036.... or .97:1...
Yes, you can switch them. Counter-gears are pressed on and held in place by a key and snapring.
Technically not a problem at all. But..... do the math again: 22 div. 48, * 46 div.25, = .84
That is what the output shaft would turn for 1 full turn of the input shaft. Or you could say a 1.19:1...
Very valid question..... !
I can only say that many here have gone that route and many LDS465-1A engines have been installed by the military, retaining the stock o.d. 3053A and Deuce TC. Possibly some got their fuel turned down a bit but knowingly others are running the 5ton MF as it came or...
Lifting the front of the engine about 2" and pushing it all the way to the pass. side should give enough room to pull that pump.
It could very well be this seal that needs to be replaced...
Try searching for key words like "lock bolt" and "drum lock pin".... alot comes up:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/39886-drum-lock-mini-handle-2.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/31822-help-winch-drum-lock-lever-stuck.html...
Very true!
Can't Moderators simply edit a title, just for that reason??? Or order - more than suggest - the OP to do it??
We may "forgive" him if he changes out only one word....:
My (head's) Filters spinning
:smile:
G.
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