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Simple test...it's a normally closed switch, thus allowing 24v to flow, once its hot it opens and denies 24v to the TDM. So take a meter and check continuity, when the engine is cold, it should be closed, if you want to test when hot, unplug and you should get a full open. Your TDM could be bad...

He same issue last week....thermostatic switch on the water crossover.

It's takes some research...while there is always an average, several factors play into the final sales prices on these hmmwv's, such as location, an example of that is the GP location a few miles from my house, when it gets hmmwv's, they will be almost double what a Barstow or Yermo truck will...

i beleive those were mounted on your transmission crossmember, they held your armor on underneath.

Those trucks went through reset. A lot of these trucks had the suspension upgraded to upper and lower control arms, ball joints, new springs,shocks, pittman and idler...etc. I have had those kits, they include variable rate rear springs and casted rear upper spring porches.

just bustin your onions,.,LOL yes, I don't miss the afterglow at all....so mucho better.

Its not a protective control box....he has an S3 EESS, using the term PCB will lead you to believe it's the old problematic PCB with glow plug controller. You don't want that old setup, unless,you like replacing glow plugs.

You have to use 24v glow plugs...military issue. Napa's are most likely 12v. Thtey should say on them what hte voltage is.

Just so we are clear on TSU's, Not all TSU's have a yellow band on them, the KDS's do. i have about 20 TSU's from Nartron that have the correct part number but no band on them. the key to determining what you have is the part number on the old unit in you water crossover. the old glow plug...

Real question is, was the box you bought new? Or used take out?

you should not have any voltage on the leads or lamps..IMO. I would lean towards a faulty light switch. As far as voltage on the Washer pump, it would lean towards a faulty EESS....or let me ask, you should only have voltage on wipers and washers when key is energized or eng running.

Those pumps are commonly broken.....every GP truck I have purchased "10" have had a bad pump. I just replace the entire bottle with pump.

You have a TH400, just go to napa and tell them it's a TH400 from a 1992-1993 am general hummer.

pull the shaft and check it, I just replaced a shaft that appeared fine, when I pulled it to replace the output seal on the tcase, the ujoint was very tight and binding, I replaced the entire shaft. Those shafts are cheap for what they are.

As i stated above, there Is an o-ring on each hose end...make sure the old o-ring is not imbedded in the steering gear, hydro boost or PS pump...

i don't like all my components covered in it, its soft and oozes in the summer, it's rock hard in winter, anything you need to work on is coated in it, mucks up tools. Not saying it does not work as designed, cuz it most certainly does, but I've done frame up restorations on MC trucks with this...

While I've never seen them, they sure look a helluva lot easier to install then the 2 piece civilian and 1 or 2 piece rubber RF's.

Its called a long block....but why bother? There are plenty of Turbo take out packages on the market you can just drop right in.

The close out panel used on the slantback won't fit onto the B-pillar of a soft top. Just suck it up fellas. A little water never hurt anyone...I drive these truck everyday, just know when you make that first right turn to make it sharp and lean right...LOL.

The length is the same, it's the mounting points that are different...