Search results

The injector on the top half where the drain nipples are will unscrew from the bottom nozzle. the top has 4 sides, so you can get a wrench on it, 7/8 open end wrench

You don't need to remove the injector lines from the pump. just move them to the side. If the one inj is turning, the body of the inj is loose, this it's sucking air. put a wrench on it and hold it so you can loosened the line. Channel locks or vise grips will work.

I have everything you need if you decide....I have full sets of new and used 12k crossmembers.

Just buy one of the m1123's...it's already done for you. Will be cheaper.

not sure what you mean cheaper...HMMWV parts are pretty cheap and abundant. Just depends on what goes out and has to be replaced I guess. Just cuz it's 24v does not make it any harder or easier then 12v, it's all going to function the same. there is nothing worse than a truck that someone tried...

Pictures would help... but what you most likely have is a 100/200amp setup. The old 60 amp can go back in, it just needs to wire up as a 60amp, those wires reside in the engine harness. The 100/200amp have a long thick cable that runs direct from the positive on the gen to the battery positve...

Your going to have air till its bled out...start the truck, crack one easy to get too injector, they all don't need cracking. white smoke is unburnt fuel...you only get dribbles from the return lines and the cracked lines only kinda dribble as well, it's not going to shoot out like crazy, that's...

not a stick, but something flexible, yes...you can even use a skinny hose and try and syphone.

Your going to need a new fuel tank plug...so don't get ahead of yourself. Those tank plugs are really one time use or they leak the next time around. Perform the steps I outlined above first before the tank draining. you can check the fuel level in the tank with a good flash light, hold the...

The thermostat type depends on the water crossover used, if it's the older 6.2 or the newer type used on the 6.5 NA from GEP. Both type can be used on either engine. Just take the old out and post a pic. Or a pic of the water crossover. if you have a 6.2, it's most likely a 6.2 crossover...

Going 12v is not an upgrade, nor cheaper, everything in the truck is 24v, every light, gauge and starter. do it right...upgrade to a 200amp, it will be cheaper.

Go back and read my post....if you follow it, this will isolate each component.

Start by draining your fuel tank. Add fresh fuel. next, start from the fuel pump and move forward, easiest way is to disconnect the hose coming from the fuel pump that terminates into the fuel filter inlet. Crank the truck....this hose should dump serious fuel out. if not, you have one of 3...

The strikers are adjustable to a certain extent, but if you look in the TM, there are more then one part number for the door latch mechanism backing plate that shim the latch out further, the doors only come with the thin one, you could just double them up.

M1151/52's, any new production...I have installed them a number of times in customer trucks.

Sounds like you have done your your home work, carry on.... have you checked the actual coolant temp with a laser thermometer? The gauges are notoriously inaccurate. also, have you repalced the coolant bottle cap with a new "correct" 15psi.

HMMWV's....

I have seen plenty of takeout MM's for sale on g503, Epay. I just bought an NOS unit on my local Craigslist complete for $850.00! That was a score...guy bought it for his jeep only to realize it was 24v, it's now happily nesting on the front of a 2 Door pickup.

The left panal is the easiest panal on the truck to replace, the right side is a lot more involved, requires the air intake housing be removed.

You have not mentioned anything about why you think you truck is overheating. Your truck should not overheat due to a bad fan clutch. That fan clutch defaults to locked on. I seriously doubt the friction pads in the clutch are bad. what are your overheating symptoms?