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People fail to realize the the HMMWV's coming out are for the most part pretty beat. The truck was only designed to last 12-15yrs.....it's more then double that now and still going. Biggest issue I see...bad mechanics, jury rigging, no PMCS. I learned In aviation to wipe down the aircraft...

no idea...I tell folks all the time to pull 12v off the rear battery and run the 14v tap so no issues of imbalance for accessories ...th400 and 4L80E....never had an issue

as I stated in my post....I always ran the ground strap on TH400 equipped trucks, as that's what the MWO said to do. but 99% of my builds are 4L80E. the 14v tap is run to the rear battery POS terminal...to make it simpler.

I have no idea why they ground it...I've never been able to get an answer that made any sense. here is all I know...that lead is supposed to be run to the rear battery on 4L80E equipped trucks to prevent an imbalance from the draw the 12v TCM creates on the rear battery, this 12v's charges the...

F150 will struggle...my Chevy did, till I got a 2500HD Duramax....now I don't know it's back there.

Need to see what flasher you put in...you may need to put in the rear led's to affect the change. i don't mismatch them..if I go LED, I go all LED. you could unlpug the rear light bulbs and try it...that would create an even draw. They make a replacement LED bulb for the rear..keeps the old housing.

huh?

Can't figure out what you changed in the lighting setup from your post..

i charge 5k labor for this replacement, customer supplies motor...that can run from 5-10k. i can tell you that done right, your talking an additional 1k in various items like hoses, clamps, new sensors...it just All depends how much of a mess the previous mechanic made. I highly suggest you find...

To eye don't fix themselves....I had a truck do that, my first HMMWV as a matter of fact, sitting at a light and look down, bam! No OP! It was the sending unit connection....

This is common....like any M series gauge, test the gauge first...the procedure is in the TM. usually the best way to get a cursory, is it a bad gauge or is not, is to cycle the ignition power on and off, does the gauge move at all to the initial start position for that gauge? Meaning, when...

Look in the TM the part might be a 2520012003096 it lists 3 shafts based on Tcase. You have to look at the UOC "use on code" to see which truck applies. when I order, I just tell them what I have...I let my parts guy do the leg work. but I have done older small front yokes on 256...

yep...gonna need that too. Its the same as if you were going 4L80E and 242, the front yoke is larger for the 242. if you stick with the 1330 's for the front diff, you can keep the front/front drive shaft with carrier bearing. when you go with the larger front pinion, the carrier shaft changes...

Remove the injector....it's not in the cylinder, it's in the pre chamber

Just an FYI....a PCB is a PCB, an EESS is not a PCB. It crucial when diagnosing what's wrong when folks use the wrong terminology on these boxes...it is confusing, but it's a crucial piece of the pie. also, if you look at the old schematic of a PCB...not an EESS, it shows 6 items in the box. 1...

Just change out the yoke on the diff....they are plentiful. I would not go smaller u-joint.

for the most part...it's the same motor.

12469284

they only make 3 motors for the truck....6.2, 6.5 or 6.5Turbo, and the turbo is on newer trucks. so not sure what you mean is that a good thing? I guess you get .3 more and more is always better right? Lol

Yup...