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Drill it out under sized, go buy an easy out...hit it with a torch and it will come right out. I do them weekly ..,they are pipe thread, don't need more then a 1/4 turn tight with some sealant

It's quite simple to tell a repaint and not a factory job...but if you notice on the new trucks, M1165's, m1151 and 2' etc...they interior is green, the exterior is Tan. The only trucks I've seen that have tan interior are the rag tops. any of the armored trucks are always green inside and at my...

Trucks are painted based on current And forecasted AO's. So motor pools can have both tan and green...the more desert ops as we have done the last 20yrs, many trucks are Tan....but a lot of CONUS trucks are still green...not including NTC and desert training sites. So most national guard trucks...

Excess unburnt fuel is white Excess burnt fuel is black White smoke can also be coolant...but goes along with decreasing coolant level in coolant bottle as well as bubbling in the coolant bottle. As i stated and others have stated, the early 6.2 is a bit stinky...especially since these are 30yr...

No cat on the early trucks...that was added mucho later on the 6.5 and turbo trucks. That smell is normal...ur just not used to older diesel trucks.

The military turbo is all mechanical...the new GEP blocks dont suffer the issues that GM TD's did.

I have a set cheaper then that....red.

Just find and use H1 rocker panal protectors...also install Undercarriage protection kit. i wouldn't dump a ton of money into the steel rubber duck rocker panals.

Water crossovers for HMMWV's are all over sleeze bay...beltfed34 has plenty. per the TM 12554091 6.5 and 6.5 detuned 23500012 6.2L

No no...Lift the body with the front and mid bed ties....I do it all the time...some times several times a week. The rear of the bed needs to be supported by a helper...it has a lot of flex in it.

The MM install is in the new manuals...not the older m998 series. you may have a hard time finding some of those parts if MM won't sell them...maybe someone has a bad winch.bmy MM has them and it's new in the crate.

Check the gauge grounds...as well as other wiring. Bring the idle to 2k rpm and check output...see if it's fluctuation on output....if it is, the regulator is bad.

you do have the shifter in neutral right? You need to check voltages at the starter, making sure you have 24v. but if you turn the key and get nothing, and I mean nothing...no click, I Would look at the starter solenoid. go whaack the starter with a hammer a few times....also, you should be able...

The standard MWO's done to the early HMMWV's are pretty much all the same across the board, as you can see, they are all safety items. Rear Ebrake caliper conversion front commanders seats 3 point seat belts Towing capacity mod, with or without rear bumper. these are just the standard ones I...

clear as mud...are we talking about a HMMWV or an M105 trailer?

That winch don't look NOS...if it was in the original kit, it would include a lot of stuff. but looking at your pic, the winch itself is complete. They are fairly simple to install. you have left out what parts you are missing, you just pointed to lines, but the lines I see are correct. the...

He never stated he had a driveline e-brake. I personally have not seen Any GP trucks that still have it, they have all had the MWO. It most likely needs adjustment....as has been mentioned.

I wish that were true....the military installs NOS parts, civs install for the most part Chinese and Mexican knock offs. like any purchase, you have to inspect it and know what to look for....we are all at the mercy of our technical ability and knowledge when buying any new vehicle platform...

I have nos regulators for those i think...i know i have an entire gen on the work bench....for the last 4 years.

Tongue in cheek or not...it maked no diff on auction truck or not.