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i believe that's you...lo

i just bought from fastcashmoneyman.

I see some Haldex PN50011k purest for sale...says they are the new improved type...needs a mounting mod done. Is this a sure fit?

Sounds like it....won't hurt even if it don't fix it. i know folks on here have them for sale...maybe they will chime in. does that sound like the issue?

So I was doing my weekly PMCS and run on the M932a2. Started to build air and heard the normal moans and groans of air building and CTIS inflating in hwy mode...after about 15mins I noticed it was not done....I heard air expelling form the bottom of the dryer and the air pressure was stuck at 90...

once out of the truck, you test the solenoid with a single 12v battery. and no, you will most likely need to find solenoid or just replace the entire starter. Or send it out to rebuild...easier to buy a new one on auction sites

Probably a bad solenoid on the starter....hit it with a hammer.

You can reuse..I have. If you can get the rims a parts and not disturb the oring that's even better. i will put RTV in one or both channels, then let it dry after assy for 24hrs before I air up. but reusing is not 100% guarenteed to seal....but neither is new if done wrong.

That at was NON DLA...meaning a private company or individual owned them, Gl was only the auction company. in this case, BAE owned the trucks...

If all you have is a basic m998, you have the softest spring front and rear you can get. also, you cannot use front springs on the rear....but can use rears on the front, not recommended unless you know what springs you are installing. This is a military vehicle....it was not made for soccer...

Have you checked/bypassed the neutral start switch? Or....is the shifter in Neutral? Gotta ask bro....

Here is an M1113 I did with rear mounted Milemarker....this worked out awesome. and after final paint and S788 added...it's a beast.

sorry, no pics...those trucks were stripped down and restored, all 4 of them. who ever did the mod just basically fabbed up a receiver hitch for the front as he did in the rear and would plug a receiver mounted winch into the hitch, they must have been 24v as the wiring ran front to rear with...

Like I said....it's all about where the threat environment lays at the time. I worked up at the shop that did paint work for the 40th ID (Mech). here is a little more info http://www.armytimes.com/story/military/2015/09/05/going-green-new-paint-job-army-tanks-europe/71697352/

If you won't be taking them apart,this will not an issue. but at some point, if you get a blow out, someone will...but as others have said, it's not hard, just time consuming getting the runflat in and out. It's a PITA and I do them monthly...and I hate it, and that's with all the correct tools...

I see no electric winches in HMMWV's anymore...they are all Milemarker. so it's hydraulic...no need for a 200amp generator. The nice thing about Milemarker is duty cycle, it's endless...the warns have a duty cycle that can limit you. if you pr not going to use a winch that often, install a hitch...

I have a bunch of 4L80E's from take out m1151's....out of 5, only 2 have drain plugs...I change my pans over if they don't have them. My 98 hummer has a drain plug....

I still have several sets available...PM for price details.

You can only go 38's I be live without a body lift...,maybe 39, 40's are out. The problem is finding them for the HMMWV rim size, a lot of H1 owners go 17 and 18in.

Cant say ive ever broken an easy out..especially if using the correct size for the bolt to be removed. But like i said...i remove at least 1 a week. Heat is the key...i like to put in brass pipe plugs That can be removed with a crescent wrench. The whole allen head idea in that spot is a bad...