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You didn't say what rims you have...but the magnesium run flat is garbage and only used on the old 8 bolt rim.
they did away with them...think what happens to magnesium when it catches fire.
i don't use the lube...and it's only needed if you run on the run flat. I always install run flats as it...
when I did mine, I had to use a set of rears to get the arm rests and hardware....I have a finished set that only needs paint and stripping...but they ain't cheap. They are a one off.
81a runs through the EESS...it's probably fried in the box from jump starting...seen it before.
remove the control box, open it up...you will see if it's burnt. Been there, seen That. The other is possibly a bad connection in the cannon plug or burnt shorted wire in the engine harness. I open...
As I said in my first post...do you have 27.5 volts or so at the generator, just meter across the ground and the red 8gauge wire...if you have no output from the gen, you will just read battery voltage..24v, or less if you your batteries are weak.
your gen is most likely bad...I also said your...
The H1 mounts on top of the radiator stack....it can be done. The fender mounted unit is nice, it's out of the way, poses no issues I'm aware of. I've installed several, both 2 man setups and 4 man. IMO, The 2 man setup blows plenty cold to fill the cabin.
I just did a conversion for a...
We aren't using RFID's anymore...at least not where I'm stationed. Seems some ports use them, other don't.
its to provide ITV "intransit visibility" through GATES.
In your last pic, you should have a larger cable on that bracket...8 gauge , that's where is where charging comes from.
cant really tell from the pic, your finger is in the way...
but if you have only battery voltage at the gen....the gen is bad, most Linley the regulator.
How do you know the generator is putting out the required voltage? Did you meter it at the gen to see if you have 27.5 volts or so? If so, and not at the battery's, it most likely your EESS box is bad. Had one in the shop that did that.
You pic shows 2 POS cables on the power stud, that correct...
You can either replace the engine harness, splice on new boots or splice on standard crimp on bullet type solder less connectors. The blue female connector is a perfect fit on the tip of the glow plugs.
Once you smoke those glow plugs, you can only hope they didn't swell and you can get them out without breaking them and having to go through a few headaches getting the broken tips out of the pre-chamber.
The screws on the LED lighting I have is a self tap Phillips head. The standard issue rear tail lamps used in all M/series trucks is a funky one, it too is a self tap, but has a longer neck with no threads held in with a piece of bent wire to retain the screw when loose....
Glad to hear...but here is the worst of it...it can come loose while driving, guess what happens when that happens.
and you get no warning....it's a deangerous condition.
i owned a truck that did that....I replaced the pump , you can replace the shutoff solenoid.
$1200.00
hoods are a PITA, shipping them is a guarantee that they will be damaged when they get to the other end, even in the factory box.
so definetly buy one where you can go get it, see it and touch it....
The truck won't start, adding a ground is not going to fix it....your have to know if your getting all the required things to make a Diesel engine work:
1. Air, make sure you have no obstruction in the air intake system
2. Heat, this comes from the glow plugs, check them with an ohm meter, make...
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