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That is your problem. By switches I assume you mean breakers? Remove the one you were wiggling (associated with WTEC control) and check it with an ohmmeter. If it is defective, you can replace it with a same amp breaker from an unneeded circuit like "warning light" or "radio".

Welcome. The WTEC controller has to be powered up "Lit N" in order to allow engine cranking. Take a look in the PDP (fuse box) for other breakers that are tripped or not seated well. The breaker locations are on a decal on the cover. The WTEC control has two breakers if I recall.

Yes, that is how it works in the scrap business. Someone here once said "someone could scrap the first Harley Davidson ever made and they would cut it up regardless". Best not to even think about all the great things that have been cut up.

That buckle is part of the AM/598/U power supply. Mine has the same strap. Keeps the radio from bouncing. I think those radios were good for a half mile when they were new, so don't get high expectations.

The FRP battery tray is just as hot as the battery. Looks like he does not have a cover and the sun has been shining on the battery.

Will need pictures of the battery box with a naked girl pointing to the battery in question. Too hot usually means overcharging. Have him recheck voltages.

Should not do that. Sounds like the inflate/deflate valve may have an issue. CTIS is unrelated.

I have found E85 fuel cuts the diesel gum like butter. Maybe the in tank pickups are restricted.

Looking at your picture in the other post, there is a cable zip tied to the heavy +12 volt cable at battery post "1". The light gauge cable does not appear to have it's terminal connected to the battery lug. Smoking gun . . .

You also made a separate post here about the battery connections. Are you SURE all cables leading to vehicle loads are attached to the correct posts? If someone has been messing with these connections that was not trained (like a volunteer firefighter for example), it is quite possible things...

The VIM has fuses inside. VIM is Vehicle Interface Module, that is how the vehicle signals are made available to the transmission software. Some WTEC controllers are 24 volt, not sure about your A4, but I would think yes. So follow the work packages (WP) and you should be able to get to the...

I do not agree with advice given regarding capping front service and emergency lines.

No way is that ugly! Needs a little paint, a fender and a bed and you are done!

Oh and that is not the right manual, you need TM9-2320-303-24-1 and -2. Download from JATonka website.

Yup. Mine is a '53 and the serial is 51130. 1952s had serial numbers in that range.

You have an Allison "world" electronic transmission. The controller and keypad must be powered and functioning in order for engine cranking to be enabled. The lack of lit keypad is the clue as to why your engine won't crank. Check the keypad and controller (follow harness) for connectors that...

If the Allison controller does not light up, it will not permit the engine to crank. You will need to determine why no power is available to the controller, or, it is possible the controller has failed. The transmission should default to neutral when unpowered. If the truck won't roll, it is...

Welcome. The serial is only located in two places. One, on the main data plate cluster on the dash in front of the passesnger. Second, on the Willys builder plate, located on the sponson behind the driver seat.

Glad you made it. Actually kinda fun trying to brainstorm what was going wrong with your truck. What did they say "failure is not an option".

Yes, it's a simple issue. Non-replaceable hold up battery in the ECU has run out of juice. Cat can verify.