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The pin hole is unfixable? Seems like with all the new magic chemicals these days, a dab of something would seal it.

Lookin' good. We all got a little insight into Faith Tire's warranty nightmare here in a thread a while back. I suppose the scrap tire buyers have discovered there are more reasons than low tread that Uncle will dismount a perfectly good looking MTR.

This thread covers what you want to do: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?165169-Will-an-old-fashioned-GM-speed-driven-fan-clutch-fit-the-HMMWV&highlight=viscous

I just know that when you pressed the red button, a REALLY loud noise happened and something far away became little pieces. Lemme look in my M47 ORD9.

I would use the Fel Pro gaskets. Seems like when you silicone two parts together directly, it becomes nearly impossible to get them apart, no big deal with castings, but you tend to bend up the valve covers prying on them. I assume you have to change the valve covers to suit the CUCV CDR...

Your M51 looks super clean to me. All driveline components except for the engine are the same between the two trucks, what are you gaining by doing all this work?

Yeah, I did not think so. "Lose power and eventually stall" does not sound like the abrupt engine off situation you would get with the wires. As far as the return line, I would get the compressed air nozzle and start blowing.

Did a little digging. The only Oshkosh crash truck made in 1974 is the P4. It had the engine in the back, with the transmission pointing forward. So the front axle disconnect, if it has one, will be on the wrong side of the transfer case if you put the engine in the usual spot on your build.

This thread has a ton of info you are looking for: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?113634-Ever-see-inside-the-Protective-Control-Box/page3&highlight=protective I found this thread by searching for the term "protective" in the 5 ton forum.

We can help you don't give up. Pictures: Press "go advanced" then press "manage attachments" then press "add files" then press "select files", pick your picture from your device, then press "upload files". Do you have two hot batteries connected in series? Do your lights work? What happens...

Welcome. That was not used in any other military trucks that I am aware of. I would guess it is a single ratio 1:1, based on the "thinness" of the box (verify by turning yokes). Power would be applied to the upper drive yoke, and then would go through the "drop box" gears to the lower shaft...

Welcome. Your only hope to figure out what AFB your truck was assigned to is from markings that may be painted over on the bumpers. If from Ohio, only a few choices.

I would check that the return line is free flowing, check pressure on the IP side of the filter, check for bubbles in the supply line, if all is good, I would send the IP back for bench testing.

Hen's teeth!!!!! Extreeeeemly hard to find!!!!

Run an entirely new wire from a good ground location to one of the screws that attach the WTEC to the dash.

NO. They know all about auctioning yellow iron. This is their "first rodeo" in the surplus arena and boy does the inexperience show. What drives me nuts is them mixing in the state/local crap with the mil. None of us are looking for ragged out white pickups and rusted bush hogs.

I would guess the entire output of the LDT, about 100 horses? RPM is same as engine in 4th. This PTO drives water pumps on the fire truck and fueler, and hydraulic pump on the 108.

Oh look I had a picture!

Yes there is. It is quite difficult to find. There is a collar that is attached to the spline shaft, make sure you get it when buying the PTO. Also, there is an oil line that feeds the bearings in the PTO that is attached to the bottom of the transfer, you need that as well.

Wait, by three switches are you talking about the military light switch with 3 levers? If yes, your problem could be related to poor grounding of the WTEC keypad controller. Run a new ground wire to the controller/keypad and see if that resolves the issue.