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It's been published a few times over the years...just recently as a matter of fact....there are still folks around that attended those auctions....I know several. Just search the 'G'.

Oh...and don't look for a fuel filter at the local store...they don't exsist. Just buy it from parts supplier. this is the number one filter to replace IMHO....but don't just dive right into it, it can be a bear and many folks have issues getting the system bled out afterwards...or the truck...

I'm no fan of synthetics....just stick with 15w-40 on oil, PH5 oil filter, Dexron 3 for trans,Power steering and TCASE, 80-90 G.O. For Diffs and geared hubs, DOT 5 silicone brake fluid....if you stick with the military way...it's all changed on either Time,hours or miles....so if driven seldom...

if it has a fording kit..it's USMC, army does not equip it hmmwv's with this kit....if you have a DODACC it's easy to see where the truck came from and went too...that comes from the DD1387. But I doubt you are going to find a complete history of the Truck....most likely just it's last unit of...

27c comes off the run CB, into pin H on EESS. Branches off to starter control solenoid, lamp check, wait lamp, glow plug control, then goes out on pin F on engine harness to 5B, this ties into a bunch of other compenents but all go to generator, one of which is 568. find and download the...

FYI...one of those breakers is for run power behind the dash. i need to look at my schematic in the morning.

I had this issue on a truck...I traced it to the positive stud that pass through from the battery box to the starter. it was all connected, truck was driven to my back pad....then just nothing. All I did was take it apart, check it...reassembled and she started. Would also be a defective main...

What I have a problem with is no lights....I would replace the light switch as a start...a lot of stuff runs through it.

Do you have power at the starter?jump the truck at the starter across the soenoid. Are your connectors correct at your start switch? Did you remove them at some point? There is a section in the TM to troubleshoot.

Any thoughts on rim types for flipped vs not flipped? I was told that there are adapters for some rims.

Ahhh. I see, but that appears to have been a one off....I see that it is mentioned about flipping the hubs, do I have to do this for ZZL 1400's from an M923, Not a big deal, or is there an adapter?

Not sure what you mean "sectioned". The web page just appears to show 105 springs drilled and attached.

Going to start a Bob on an M35....I have a donor M105 and planned on using the bed and springs...but I'm getting differing opinions on the springs....M105 or front deuce springs? What are the advantges and disadvantages, other the obvious load ratings.

what Ted said...in order to line up the 4 holes on the fan clutch still on the truck, you will need compressed air in the clutch unit...it sucks to do It in the truck. It can be done...but have patience and band aids. remove the stack....

It kinda hard to miswire the starter, the size of the stud "power and ground" dictate where the leads terminate....I'm other words, you cannot fit the ground wire to the pos stud.....IIRC, the start has 3 pos connections and 1, maybe 2...1pos connection comes from batteries, the other 2 come...

You are correct...but it just depends on the mfg of the LED lighting installed...Groat, Trucklite etc..the flasher unit is key.

A new brake light switch would have resolved your issue...they are common to fail. And then adjusted correctly.

Yep...flex plate cover. To remove will require the starte and exhaust cross over pipe be removed...sometimes you can get the cross over off without dropping the starter....unless the flex plate is contacting the cover...just leave it. And if you have never owned a diesel...the oil is soote...

They make Mercedes Benz R class for China market...

AM general is almost a ghost town now....this will. Be the nail in the coffin...I hope I'm wrong.