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It's almost Normal for these to leak if over full and parked on a sloped driveway, the tank is fine, it's the seal between the metal plate on top of the tank that is leaky when they get old. The original were cork, the later style is rubber. i use RTV as well when putting in a new seal, evenly...

thats the normal spot...remove the shield or put hose clamps around it. Some of the crossover pipes NOS don't have that heat shield....IMHO, it's a nuisance.

in both cases it's a headquarters truck...HHc and HQ. The FSB is a Forward support battalion...or as we used to called them when I was in the 340th FSB...a "Frisbee". its vey well the same unit and the units number changed...I was in the 540th Maint Bn that became the 340th FSB. my unit was a...

Acetone...of its NON CARC it will wipe off, if it's carc...well, for get it. I just picked up a Deuce...and the bumper numbers were painted over...after cleaning the tan non CARC paint off well enough...turns out the deuce Is from my old unit. 340SPT "340th support battalion"

Just buy NOS and reinstall...then wait 25yrs for the next one to corrode...lol i find its only the outside edges that deteriorate. I change them out on Hub rebuilds, but only if they are far gone. its simple to replace at any time. i find them on eBay for about 10-20 bucks...

Why? That is the bigger question....but I guess to each his own. I prefer to keep them correct. maybe we need a "Hot rodding and upgrades" section as they have for the Deuce.

It's a 6.5 harness...they can be used, but will require some mods..the GM type plug is the TPS on the injector pump for when using the 4L80E. For simplicity though...getting the 6.2 harness would be better to install. Unless you upgrade to 200Amp setup...then that harness comes in handy.

Those are common to get corroded...they are aluminum bolted to steel. I just replace them...but they need sealant.

I have used/tested takeouts with new temp senders for 350.00 plus shipping...pm me if your interested.

As I stated in another thread...just add hockey pucks with a hole drilled in the center....unless you are adding 40in tires or another motor that requires a body lift...why are lifting it? you can also add body lift kits installed on civ H1 Hummers...there are several on the market. Or try some...

Get an S3 EESS....and yes, Temp sender comes with it...TSU....and as always,disconnect battery's before you do ANY electrical work on these trucks...that's the beauty in having a BAttery cutoff switch.

No idea this part you are referring too.

Ahhh. Well..in that case...just scratch the body cutting and turbo eng harness. you will still need everything else.

Hopefully you have been stock piling parts for the conversion...all new drive shafts, body harness, TCM, turbo engine harness,... will need to be cut the body for the engine to fit, holes drilled for the trans and tcase lamp, turbo dog House, new A2 fuel tank, rear diff support, or modify old...

30 psi is normal...dont ever trust a mil gauge anyway. Oil is always black on these motors You dont buy mil vehicles for fuel mileage...get a prius if its a major concern. Lift kits are simple shims...use hockey pucks.

Not original paint...wrong color, probably a CARC substitute.

You only lift the body...not the suspension. Here in my opinion FWIW...anything other then the factory motors will do nothing but make you work on this truck more then You might want....plug and play is key. The truck wasnt designed for a cummins. so it's a hack job to say the least. Seen...

I'm going with front springs...deuceman51 is setting me up. Question....I see a lot of folks refer to moving the rear forward for the "Bob", does it make a difference? Both axles are the same...unless I'm wrong. i have the rear axles busted loose...so I'm ready for springs. 395's are enroute...

If found some 395's on MRAP aluminum rims...24bolts for s good deal. Peashooter is out of adapters, found some on epay that are 1/2in steel, CNC machined. So I'm done on that part....also,going to go with front deuce springs. i was told the 12 bolt MRAP rims are steel, the aluminum are 24 bolt...

Looks sweet, who sells the adapter? And what rims and tires are those off of..HEMMT? anoter question, can I reuse the U-Bolts from the m105 and add the 4in block? Or I do need longer U-bolts?