Search results

Made the angle iron brackets with some stainless that was scrap at work. Came out good & evens the load on the tank tabs a bit more.

Thanks, I guess I am well within that range & the bad radiator had me running a but more hot than that.

I'm going to give mine a look & see if I need to do that. Thanks!

You're right & I just didn't think of it. A lot of weight for those tabs! I plan to run angle iron across the short ways to help. Should do the trick. Regular rubber pads still don't help enough with vibration... I did try that already.

It's not bad, just seems to run cooler than I remember. Before I had the radiator fixed, it would always be between the two unmarked notches. Guess it just works better now! It could be due to the thermostat opening a bit sooner as well. Just a little surprising since it's really hot down here...

Haven't updated in a while because I've just been using it! Up to 342 hours. Taking it out again this weekend & did some pre-trip checks. Found a bit of an oil leak that I'm not sure where it's coming from. I suspect the crank case gasket? It ends up all pooling at the motor mounts. Not...

Thanks for letting me know. I did end up just cutting it with it all together & welded a foot on. If I decide to make it a bit cleaner in the future, I will punch the roll pin out as you pointed out. :)

Well, got it all finished! Turns out as I suspected at the beginning, the spring was in the wrong hole of the governor lever. Found some crud in the injection pump. Cleaned it out. Got the needed fittings for the fuel tank. Put all new fuel lines on. Tidied up all the electrical & fuel...

In case you find this post & need the TM for it, Guyfang posted them at this link; https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-531a-2-kw-generator-set.165405/ The same TM is used for the 501A & 531A.

Got everything put back together yesterday except the fuel tank, fuel filter, & fuel lines. Found the needed parts today & ordered Found some crud in the fuel injection pump. Did the valve timing one more time. The spring on the governor was in the wrong spot & read up in the TM on where it...

Well, worked a bunch this afternoon again. Was able to remove the valves & camshaft. Got the new governor fork in. Put everything back in the way it should be. Primed it up & tried to start. Nothing! Fiddled with the valve timing & tried to start again. It ran, but poorly. I think I need...

That's what I figured. Thanks for confirming.

Alright, after going at it for a few days, I got it off! The 3/16 screw is a regular thread with yellow thread locker. Damaged my regular allen key & a socket allen key but ultimately got it off. Used a puller & heat again to get the adapter off the tapered part of the thread. Got the...

Do you use them on brush trucks or something? How to they handle being dead-headed? Best way to prime if you end up needing to is removing the pull start reel & then using a 15/16 socket on a drill to turn the bolt that's seen while holding down the decompression lever. You can also loosen the...

If you run into any kinks, let us know. I did my best to be as in depth as I could with my posts & videos to help others getting into it like you out! Guys here are extremely helpful.

There is nothing in the TM (TM 9-6115-673-13&P) on the removal of that coupling part. There is a work package (WP 0021) in the TM on inspecting them & it says "Inspect flexible flange couplings on alternator and engine crankshaft for damage and wear. If damaged or worn, refer to next higher...

This is a video I made on the first one that I took apart. Got really involved & made a cool project out of it. Ultimately, ended up selling it to help pay for me MEP-802A.