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Check all the connections between the display and the WTEC. Check breakers feeding the WTEC. Check connections plugged into WTEC. If everything checks out, send your WTEC for diagnostics to Transmissioninstruments.com. Yes the WTEC must be alive to allow engine cranking.
Agree, this sounds like cable terminal ends, what can happen is corrosion occurs between the copper strands and the crimped on connector, leading to intermittent weird behavior. Get your voltmeter, starting at the batteries, work your way towards the pdp until you find voltage dropping off...
The transformer rectifier device is potted in, meaning the components are surrounded by solid potting material. It's not fixable. Disconnect the wires going to it before it catches fire.
Looking good. Valence can make those stupid long straps so you can replace the temporary orange ones. Suggest you start a different thread for the surging issue. Check belt tension. Check battery terminals. Check LBCD for bad connections.
Post the engine compartment auction pics. Yermo or Albany? Water in the engine is usually due to USMC leaving the air intake open to the elements for years.
Suggest you upgrade to Delco alternator, only reason to keep the 25 amp system is to win awards at military vehicle shows. Lots of threads on doing the swap.
This huge radio stack looks cool and all but be forewarned that it blocks the driver view of the RH mirror. I am going with the cooler Blue Force computer even though GMVs didn’t seem to have those.
Solenoids have been used to switch on heavy DC loads like starter motors since cars didn’t have cranks. My 1968 Ford still has the factory starter solenoid with 350,000 miles.
If you are not familiar with setting up R&P in a heavy truck, take/send your pumpkins along with your new R&P to a competent shop like MTP drivetrain Many, LA.
I believe the tray is the same as usual, what they did was have that u shaped surround made so more stuff could be mounted on top. Somebody was reproing those, maybe 86humv.
My suggestion would be to offer new "guts" for the existing boxes we have. That will eliminate the expense of the box and the expensive connectors. And pppplease use a big honkin solenoid, not those 3 in a row transistors to light up the glows.
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