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I would grind away all rust until just shiny metal remains. Then fill the holes and the bare shiny steel area with JB Weld. Then coat the area with cold galvanize paint, then topcoat.
That will work. I would do everything I could to make sure the engine is a good runner before going through the work of transplanting it. Including making sure coolant doesn't disappear. My '00 6.5 TD does that. I keep having to refill it.
Is the box truck a "cutaway", i.e. a van that has the back cut off? Those have the rear mount turbocharger which won't fit. Otherwise no problem other than having to "de-computerize" the engine.
For sure all the 25 XX codes inhibit shifting so that is why you see that. Here is the troubleshooting guide if you don't have it. Dig in, you might figure it out without dropping huge coin on an Allison guy.
Ha ha being in the manufacturing business my whole life, I can assure you that we are only concerned with making the next widget, once something is shipped we never want to hear about it ever again.
I have heard that AM General is coming around to embracing the "aftermarket" of their vehicles...
No. If you have to obtain a splice section anyway, just get several long sections of line and use unions to couple them. Abandon the leaking section and tie wrap the new line to the frame. The line is auto parts store item premade in various lengths.
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