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Yes, I believe over time it might wear a hole through the metal. But since I don't open and close my tailgate all the time it will take years for this to happen. I'll probably be dead by then.

No but after viewing it, it would have saved me a lot of work if I had known ! I was referring to a much older post. Wow, basically we came up with the same idea ! I wonder if he had a few earlier mishaps like I did. Here's the part numbers and where I bought my springs. It's from Trailer...

That would be nice !

Must be nice to have that kind of equipment !

Thanks Chris. I suppose it would work on the sides also. Though they are much heavier you might need three or four springs instead of just the two. I'll post the part numbers of the springs and where I bought them later.

Nice little trick !

OK, your talking about a "constant mesh" transmission like the Eaton/Fuller "RoadRanger" transmission. In fact the "Mack R" series used the Fuller 9 speed RoadRanger. They are not a non-synchronized transmission like the old 1950's/1960's units. They need to be double/clutched and "split" range...

That looks like an old WWII lathe ! At my old shop we had three of them. They all worked great too ! They built stuff to last back then !

Over the years people have tried to figure out a simple and cheap way to help lift the Deuce's rear tailgate. A few years ago some said "why can't we use springs to help assist it". The idea got shot down because some said it would not allow the tailgate to fully open. At the time I was still...

Good job on the video and making your own spanner tool. I know it helps a lot of people to actually "see" a procedure done instead of just talking about it.

Why would you want an "unsynchronized" transmission ? They haven't built one of them for decades now.

The "Fuel Density Compensator" is a precisely machined device that when it gets worn out can cause fuel to leak straight into the engine. There are no seals or gaskets to replace to fix it either. So if yours starts to leak the best thing to do is "bypass" it. Since they all are old now anyway...

I've used those hoses from "rockauto" . They've worked out really well for me.

Your right. After you get past the "zinc" levels your just looking at the weights. So a good 10/40W oil is basically the same as any other 10/40W oil as long as it is manufactured by a reputable company. There are some garbage oil companies out there you need to watch out for. Like the man said...

Yeah, being the seventh largest transit agency in the U.S. (over 1400 buses) you hear of a lot of things happening. We average a pedestrian hit about once a month. People just walk right in front of the buss !!!

OK I'll try and "steer" you in the right direction. First off have you checked the "tie-rod" ends ? Have someone sit in the drivers seat and turn the steering wheel fast left and right. Don't make them long turns but short fast turns. Just bam,bam,bam, Left,right,left,right . You should be able...

All the Semi-trucks and all transit buses use this style. Very positive clamping this way. Actually you are suppose to torque them down. Cannot remember the torque off the top of my head but 150 in Ibs sounds about right. That way you know the battery connection is secure. You know the transit...

The problems with our CUCV's is they usually are not daily drivers. A vehicle that is driven normally everyday will last 4X the amount of a vehicle that is only driven on weekends or even worse monthly. That is why a car like "Volvo740turbo" has can have over 300,000 miles on it and still runs...