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AM General started HMMWV production in 1985 ...

‘83? Is that a typo?

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fmtv-water-pump-belt-replacement.144277/

Get a 1-3/4 wrench and remove the latch cylinder cap. Pull out the plunger and replace the National #216 O-ring inside. There is a thread on how to do this. thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/critical-fmtv-pm-not-covered-in-tms.130222/

Yes the fan has to come off to replace the belt. Not fun, I did a thread on it about 4 years ago. Involves lining up the access holes in the fan clutch with the allen screws and working blind to remove them.

Fix the upstream power problems first before worrying about the display.

Next time drive the load all the way over the trailer axles before you fold the gooseneck and couple and then move it back afterwards.

Well it can be assumed that if you are getting plenty of pressure to the injection pump, getting voltage to the solenoid and it is moving inside, your injection pump needs to go out for rebuild.

Are you getting good pressure from the mechanical pump up to the injection pump? Did it ever run before?

Is your in tank pump running strong and is the rubber hose inside the fuel tank deteriorated.

Each runner has two studs with nuts so if your daughter can count 16 of them, just pry up on it a little harder.

These fine folks might be able to help: https://www.transmissioninstruments.com/

Someone has right sides of these “fender toppers” on ebay but not the left side. I bought the one side and was amazed that the holes lined up perfectly on my 1025A2. So I decided to repop the opposite side. Common aluminum .25 thick. It is a mirror image of the ebay item except for a...

Needs hot batteries to crank fast. Crack open the fuel line between the fuel pump on the accessory drive and the unit injectors and verify good diesel flow when cranking.

Being in manufacturing I will hazard a guess. The number wasn’t stamped upside down there as the truck went down the line, rather, was stamped as was convenient to the operator of the brake press that bent that frame rail. The number is possibly the last few digits of a part number that...

Should be in here.

Nothing at all undesirable about a naturally aspirated truck. Runs just as strong as a LDT.

I doesn't matter. The lower the series number, the older the date of manufacture. But these trucks were rebuilt, sometimes many times, so a series 10 from the 1980's might be in worse shape than a series 1 from 1966.

Started life as this. Back of your frame is whacked off. Bed and whatever is left of crane is scrap. Box on fender don't belong there.

What nonsense return did they promise Uncle? And they sell those $100,000 LMTV s at Hawaii for $1000. They are losing their ass.