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Get yourself one of the electric "Milwaukee" power grease guns. Mine can put out 10,000 PSI. It will blow out seals if your not careful. Ask me how I know that !
The "Lincoln" powerluber will also put out 10,000 PSI .
When I was still young and full of vigor, I would have just used a large pipe extension also. Now I'm old and tired and need lots of naps ! So the nice electric tool can do all that hard work for me !
Oh. I forgot to tell you Frank. The steering gear came. Thank you !
Doghead had edited my...
Actually what you do is loosen them and using the proper feeler gauge install it between the valve and rocker and adjust until you can just barely remove the feeler gauge. It really isn't all that complicated just takes a bit of coordination since the valves are jumping up and down. You learn to...
Today I will be addressing another problem I have found on several steering gears.
That is the steering stop bolts are adjusted improperly. In pictures 1 and 2 you can see damage to the steering gear housing. This is caused by the "sector shaft" (pitman arm shaft lever) hitting the housing (pic...
I'll just say this and let you decide. I've been a heavy diesel mechanic for 45 years. Recently retired (2 years) . In all that time the best way to adjust the valves was hot and running. The reason the TM says to do it cold is so that the silly GI's didn't' hurt themselves. Really that is the...
Yes. That's why it has the nickname of "shovel". For serious off-roaders though it is needed. Just remember to clean it out after wheeling. I almost bought one for my CUCV. Since I don't go off-roading much anymore I decided against it.
The rings rusted to the cylinder bore. Seen it happen so many times. I tell people who are going to "store" an engine to put a "oil pump driver" in it and using your electric drill spin-up some oil pressure once a month at least. There are oil pump drivers for almost all engines. Just go to...
I've been planning on buying the new Milwaukee 3/4" drive impact myself. It has the latest designed motor producing the highest torque on the market right now. It's a little pricey, especially now being on a "fixed" income, but I'll save up for it.
I'm with the new oils faction myself. I'm using Shell 50W synthetic gear oil. If I went old school I would use 80/90W gear oil.
Any thing less in weight tends not to work as well in the heavy gear application of the transfer-case. Especially in summer ! You can hear the gears screaming !
Something else to consider is all the linkage and how it moves around and on the part. If someone could have a video showing a actual bracket installed and all the linkages in motion, it would give someone a good idea what can be removed-added or moved.
If you use "brake fluid" then be sure to clean off the part and the hone every time you stop honing, and add some clean brake fluid. Honing oil will hold the particles in "suspension" while brake fluid will not.
You don't need to be "independently wealthy" to have good tools. Yes I bought most of mine since I was a heavy equipment mechanic for 45 years, but I see good tools on "craigslist" and "eBay" all the time for pennies on the dollar. Old mechanics like myself selling their tools after they retire...
What he said. Plus check all the steering joints and the king-pins (steering knuckle) . I bet you will find some loose parts in there. Plus check the steering gear for "sector" shaft movement. It should be ZERO !
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