Search results

Here's a picture of my brake controller. It can handle a 3 axle trailer. I always test the brakes whenever I get in the cab. Just a habit. 500 Ibs is where it is suppose to be. I have gotten it up to almost 600 Ibs once. I had to grab a hold of the steering wheel and push for all I was worth...

I know that 1" impact weighs a lot. Especially after taking a couple of tires off ! I've learned to rest the unit on my thigh. Though that gets pretty tiring also now a days. That's why I'm liking the new 3/4" Milwaukee Impact Wrench. The problem with the road service is the tires usually go out...

Yes. It has four wires coming in from the dash unit.

It's much easier to remove the rockers then remove the heads. Or just back off the bolts and let the valves close. That's what the military does or did for long term storage. That and fogging the bores with a good penetrant spray. Also having had an engine that I installed a oil primer on it...

Wow ! I remember those days well. It's making me feel my inner "Timothy Leary" right now. Lets all "turn on, tune in and drop out" !

Yeah at home I would just use the compressor since I have a very nice 1" impact that will take any nut off or break the stud. On the road I have the military breaker and a "Tank track" torque multiplier that will go up to 5,000 ft Ibs. If that doesn't break it loose I'm leaving it !

Very true.

So it was the S7 switch. Good call Guy !

You might be tightening the cable down too tight and it is binding. You only need to screw on the connector by hand until tight then just "snug" it up a bit.

Did you completely disassemble the Hydraulic Head and clean it ? Cleaning correctly entails removing all the passage plugs (pic 2) and the pressure regulator valve (pic 3) . When all the plugs are removed (including the plunger assembly) you should be able to see clear through the housing.

I ran 10 gauge wire from the "box" to the trailer connection. Each circuit is protected with a 20 amp breaker except the electric brakes which has a "automatic reset breaker" that is 30 amps. I suppose I should show the "junction" box in the back that splits the circuit to the two trailer...

Of course it has back-up lights. I just didn't add all the signal functions as I figured most had read my earlier posts.

You don't add the alcohol ?

Your correct in saying the best way is to rotate the crankshaft while pressurizing the oil system. Which could be easily done. You missed the initial question though. The engine had "already" been bought completely "assembled" . It would be silly to tear it down to store it. So you either...

The gauge he is using is not very accurate. Since the deuce turbo does not put out much boost in the first place it might be missing something.

Sorry Frank. Cleaned it up tonight.

You don't think pressurizing the oil system will help ? It will spray oil all over everything. Including the piston pins and rings and by extension the cylinder bores. As far as filling the whole engine with oil. All you will end up with is a mess. It will come out every pore that engine has...

There 24 volt relays. I have a dedicated 12 volt supply in and the signals from the truck are all 24 volt. So I use the trucks signals (turn lights, brake lights, taillights) to activate the relays and that supplies my 12 volts for the trailer.

That is a very good bed breaker there. I have planned on buying this one myself when funds become available.

Hey "lino" . It's been over a year since you gave us any new information on the filter assembly. What's happening ?