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Thanks papakb, that means that since the suppression diode is "optional" and not part of the circuit required for the mosfets to switch, either the mosfets are blown too or the upstream gate trigger voltage is not longer present which I have no way to fix. Hmmm.
I believe you are right. The diode is connected between the source and drain on the three 75344G Fairchild MOSFETs, not sure of the purpose. If someone tried to jump the truck off reverse polarity, the +24 volts would travel through the chassis to the engine, backfeed the glow plugs, and then...
Has anyone been down this path already? Big power diode blown up near mosfets that juice the glow plugs. Not sure of rating, will order 50 volt 30 amp or so and see if it fixes box. Box would not glow.
Sure I would. Technically you are not supposed to put tubes in tubeless tires but for what you are trying to do should be fine. Yes the 9.00-16s are very pricy now and surplus ones are ancient.
Hope it’s not your injection pump failed. You will know very soon.
I take my tool bag even going around the block. You never know with these old trucks.
The order of brake release/ putting in gear has nothing to do with anything. Simp is right, these parts are old and used low quality non-milspec commercial components to begin with.
There are dozens of 39 year old connections between the batteries and the starter. I would start by poking around with voltmeter to see what's up before buying a starter.
Yes, the Hercules engines are 1920’s designs, and precision bearing halves were not yet invented. Rebuilding a Hercules engine, specifically setting up the crankshaft clearances, is an all day thing using trial and error with shims and lots of plastigauge.
Thanks everyone so far. Update, I unplugged the proportioning valve connector and the brake warning light did not extinguish. Sure enough it’s a stuck handbrake switch. Based on ya’lls responses, with a completely empty truck, this might be the nature of the beast.
Order a new part and cross fingers? If I were here I would suggest taking it to a transmission shop, but over there it will be very difficult to find GM Hydramatic expert.
Newly arrived M1025A2. Master cyl full, no leaks, stops on a dime but it feels like rear axle is doing the work, locks up tires rear only with hard application. Any special HMMWV wisdom here other than bleed brakes and replace master cylinder if problem does not resolve?
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