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Nice truck! Yes since we seem to get 500 year floods every two years, your truck will come in handy.

Or bad connections. After cranking feel all the connections, if there is high resistance it will burn your hand, likely suspects are the barrier strip on the firewall and cable end terminals between the terminal and the cable strands.

I'll reply 'cause quad generators are my side hustle, the engine is the same Briggs model I on the quad generator as the PE-75, the generator part looks similar but the quad it 12 volts DC and the PE is 110 volts DC for the teletype. I have sacrificed countless PE-75s to make them into quad gens.

“Turns over slowly” is your problem

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before install?

Hmm thought we were going to get sitreps on this op?

Torque rod.

Tire sidewall cracks mean blowout eminent and subtract cost of 7 tires from selling price.

Voltage should be the same at batteries and alternator no matter running or not.

Nice clean truck! The upgraded clearance lights tell me she went home to Sealy for reset.

Sure, these trucks are old now and any cable between the frame and battery, between the batteries, and the smaller gauge cable leading from the positive battery terminal to the engine area are all suspect. Remember the cable end terminals can be super clean while the corrosion lurks inside the...

The problems are related. When the alternator pegs out, the connection to the battery has been lost and the alt is "self exciting" without a reference voltage. If you are SURE that all the cable connections to the various posts are spic and span, and your batteries test good, look for this...

Haha they ride real smooth when heaped up to the top with gravel. Even gas powered, there is demand for dump trucks for site work etc. $5000 is selling price running with all repairs done. Plan on 6 wheel cylinders which is a huge amount of work to replace.

Nice truck. Usually dripping is from transmission. If filled to the fill hole it will leak out. Brake cleaner can save the clutch.

What about putting it back? How on earth do you expect to get precise torque wrench readings while hugging the front axle? Reassembly is a precision task that needs to be performed in a clean well lit shop.

Did you check the nitrogen pressure? I think it says 60 psi. You can tell which parts Rod Hall added because they are black painted. Have you done a similar “catch air” jump with your other hmmwvs so you can compare?

I recall it being a single conductor, maybe 1-0 gauge. I would use welding lead wire.

Familiar looking injection pump. This stuff is like a stray kitten, can't just turn it away, have to find a home for it.

I rebuilt it’s big brother the T77 on the shop floor. Pay lots of attention to the shims that generate the bearing preload.

In the FMTV forum. Oh and FOR SURE the driveshafts being out of phase (common) or failing the hinge test (any discernible up down movement at slip joint) will cause this, along with slinging the water pump and alternator too.