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Why didn't you make the tank out of aluminum? Less weight and no worries about rust from the water that will inevitably be in the WMO. Rick

You repainting the Durango? Rick

ABS, That means you have to have computer controlled servos somewhere. Out of my league. Rick

Are the drums tight again? If yes then it is most likely rusty e-brake cables. Replace both. If the drums are not dragging then check the rear axle bearings. I would guess that since you said they were dragging from the start that the brake cables will be your issue. Rick

10,500 lb. boat. That is one big boat to trailer! Rick

IFTA should only come into play if you are hauling freight commercially. Anything that falls under ICC jurisdiction.

Do you have lock outs on the hubs? If not you may have a bad U-joint. Or possibly a bind in the differential, I am in no way knowledgeable about these diffs. Rick

If you think it is a u-joint better check them out now. If that front joint on the rear shaft breaks it will be an a first class ride to he!!. The shaft will drop, whip around to the side and if you are lucky the rear joint will break right away. Does not usually happen that way and it can do...

It has been a while since I had a DB-2 pump apart but isn't there a filter right at the inlet? If you are running WMO it is possible that you clogged that filter. These engines are not designed to run on anything but CLEAN diesel. While it sounds like a pump issue I also note what you said about...

I have a CDL A with all the endorsements except hazmat and that one is a nightmare I do not want. I keep it for the main reason that I already had it for when I did drive commercially. Couple things to keep in mind. EXPENSIVE!!! Mine is 150.00 plus for three years, at least that was two years...

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. If the longer shackle was on the rear of the front spring then that would have induced positive caster which is not really a bad thing. Since you did already correct for that if you have a wandering issue just try taking out the axle shims.

If that shackle lift was on the front of the spring as it looks to be you are going to have steering issues. That will change your castor angle towards the negative which will cause it to wander and the steering not to self return. You can get angled shims for under the springs to compensate for...

In the case of recasting you will find that a good bond is not gong to happen most of the time. The old post will have to be exceptionally clean, the mold will have to be preheated and the lead will have to be hot enough to melt the top layer of the old post to create the bond. Then it will have...

I have a set that I would let go for a lot less than 300.00. I will check and see if they are accessible when I get home. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.

Side terminal adapter, beat me to it. Make sure to clean up all of the lead on top. That is all electrically hot and will cause more fireworks if you are not careful.

I think the main reason the prices have gone up is due to the resales of the sets. People have found out about G/L and have jumped on the bandwagon. It is just like the deuces, You could pick them up for 1000.00 for a long time and then the Moroccan contract came along and the bidding went crazy...

I just realized you were changing colors. That is tough to get everywhere. You rally need to totally strip the cab out to do it right. Especially the glass and window trims. When the military changed color it was only on the outside, they left the inside green. Personally I would leave the whole...

Just make sure the paint can is more that half full and then you can tilt it back to get the high stuff. You still have to have some angle. OR you can get cup liners and then you can spray upside down although that was never natural for me. Guess I did it the normal way for too many years. Rick

Any vehicle more than a couple of years old is going to have rust in the seams and inner panels somewhere. The only way to eliminate it would be an acid dip where the vehicle is rotated in the acid to eliminate air pockets followed by several neutralizing dips of the same procedure and then a...

You are all missing out on one major thing here. Rust out begins on the INSIDE! In the seams and inner panels where you cannot get to them. All of these rubber coatings you are putting on are great except for one thing, they are going to mask the rust until a big chunk of rubber falls off with...