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There are a few new ones on ebay for $75 to $100

Correct, the diodes operate like check valves by only allowing current to flow in one direction thru them. For instance CR1 is there to protect the DC portion if the genset from being damaged should the batteries get hooked up backwards. Some of the other diodes are there to supress current...

Yes, the K1 contactor coil is 24 VDC.

Is the VR card fairly easy to replace? Maybe a replacement card could be designed and made available if it's a fairly easy replacement.

I haven't dabbled with that conversion yet. Jamawieb could probably shine some light on that thought.

TB = Terminal Block

No need to pull the exhaust. Just unhook the wires going to it. Then remove the two bolts securing the starter to the engine and remove the starter. There is also relay K2 involved with the starter operation.

Basically the operation is the Magnetic Pickup (MPU) sensor on the bell housing detects the engine RPM. The Electronic Governor Controller (A5) measures output signal from the MPU to determine the actual engine RPM. The Electronic Governor Controller then adjusts the signal it sends to the...

To switch systems you have to relpace the regulator, T1 transformer, front panel voltage adjuster and resistor R16 on the back of the freq select switch.

Might want to check the frequency with an external device such as a DMM that can measure frequency or a Kill-a-Watt meter. That way you'll know if it's engine RPM or a bad transducer.

FU2 would be a 3 amp fuse. KTK-3 I believe. Replace the 20 amp one with a 3 amp or risk burning out the static exciter. If FU2 blew it may be a sign your AC Voltage Regulator is failing. Normally FU2 should not blow unless there is an issue.

Contact Light In The Dark for the hoses.

Don't start the set until you install the Fuse Mod. Once installed fire it up after needed prep is done and see if it produces power. If not check the Fuse mod Fuse. If good and no ACoutput then perform the AC Voltage Regulator tests and report back with results.

Loads and Overloads are sensed by the current transformer (CT). The CTs output current is sent to the burden resistors on the back wall. The burden resistors develop a voltage across them proportional the the load. The voltages across the burden resistors is monitored by the Overload relay...

I just wanted to be sure he didn't swap the back half. @kevin66 1) What do you have your Phase/Voltage reconnect switch set to? 2) How do your have your loads connected to the lugs? How much load and across which lugs?

When you say "electrical panel" do you mean the entire cube containing the gauges, VR, relays, K1 contactor, current transformer, etc? If you swapped included the current transformer (CT) then you'll get those "overload" faults. The number of turns of wire thru the CT's is different for an 802...

When you say "electrical panel" do you mean the entire cube containing the gauges, VR, relays, K1 contactor, current transformer, etc?

Screws with wires on them

I corrected my previous post. If all is working properly you should have 24 volts at K16 terminal 6 with the set NOT running and S1 in START assuming there are no fault lights illuminated. If there are NO fault lights AND you move S1 from OFF to PRIME/Run and back you should see K16 move. If it...

If all is working properly you should have 24 volts at K16 terminal 6 with the set NOT running and S1 in START assuming there are no fault lights illuminated. If there are NO fault lights AND you move S1 from OFF to PRIME/Run and back you should see K16 move. If it doesn't then S14 is the...