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The only DC voltage regulation in the set is the alternators charging regulator.
To check the battery voltage it's best to measure at the Slave Port. It's connected directly to the batteries.
DC voltage behind the control panel will be about 1 volt less than the battery voltage mostly due to...
The +24 circuit from the batteries to the front panel and control cube go thru diode CR1. Just CR1 will cause a 0.7 volt drop. The additional 0.3 or so would be normal for wiring and switch contact resistance.
The pages I mentioned yesterday...
If anyone wants the two PDF files with the info below feel free to shoot me a PM with your email address. - Kurt
I can also send a Excel spreadsheet of the wiring for the 802A/803A. It lists component to component wiring and wire number to component. It...
The base schematic is DieselAddicts creation. I marked up a copy of that with the wire numbers and terminals of the individual components.
I'll try and remember to post the whole sheet tomorrow as well as copies of the individual components with helpfull info tomorrow.
Low Oil Pressure light should NOT come on with S1 in PRIME/RUN before attempting to start it. With that light ON the set will not turn over from S1. Cranking is inhibited due to the Fault Monitor closing relay K12 which open the K12 contacts in the diagram above.
Here is the path for 24 volts...
Here is a diagram that ought to speed finding out why K2 isn't operating from S1.
The blue box's indicate the base wire number for each wire.
The red numbers in the yellow box's indicate the terminal on each component that the wire is connected to.
Not shown is actual path from S7-2 to K2-X1...
Open the gauge panel and closely watch relay K16 and move S1 from OFF to PRIME/RUN and back to OFF. You should see the contacts inside K16 changing position.
K16 is the crank disconnect relay. If S14 is bad K16 may not move which would prevent the starter turning the engine over via S1.
For reliability you ought to replace, or at least have spares on hand of the better versions of the primary fuel pump and the S1 switch.
That S1 switch shaft is plastic and frequently snap off. That's the way my 803 came from auction. Replaced it with the all metal bullet proof 75902LV.
The...
I think your S.O.L. trying to use the 460 in your 005.
The 460 is rated for use with exciters that are 15 ohms or greater.
The 005's exciter is 5.0 ohms.
If the 460 was used the 460 would likely go up in smoke trying to drive a 5 ohm load.
I suspect the red fuse was an amperage rating less than 3 amps or possibly not a time delay fuse which cause it to pop.
The popping of the red fuse shouldn't have damaged anything.
The fuse there is to protect the Quad Winding in the gen head from getting damaged should the AC Voltage...
The existing current transformer, burden resistors and %Load meter integral to the Overload and Short Circuit protections built into the generator. If you alter the setup you'll either lose those protections and/or cause false Overload and/or Short Circuit faults.
Those lines on my 802 were also leaking when I got the set. I suspect the issue those lines from the factory are too short and are bent too much. Eventually they crack around the outside of the bend and leak.
When I replaced mine I use hose sections a bit longer so there would be less of a...
Circuit breaker PN's are 95-8078 or AM1S-Z211-2
The AM1S-Z211-2 are available on ebay.
Parttarget.com is a great way to look up alternate part numbers if you have the NSN or actual PN.
AM1S-Z211-2
Generally the Calibration steps suggest using an accurate external instrument, if available, for reference.
For instance use a DMM to measure the battery voltage at the slave port while calibrating Battery Voltage.
If one doesn't have external references they can go by the sets gauges if they...
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