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See post 6 of this thread! Really nice part, stock up!

Can anyone tell if the axle pictured in the report is a G749 (M211) or G508 (CCKW)? I think it's 749. Something for all of us to check in our 6x6's.

Yert, after all your experiences with this, is a cab swap worth the trouble? My cab is decent, no rust or dents. Other than the "new car smell", what are the advantages? I suppose the better door latches?

Rust holes in the tank fuel pickup Cab rusting from the inside out along the roof seams Hard starting after sitting for days Ammeter melting

Studs are welded on. Ask Beachwood canvas if they make the seat, it is simple.

See if the turbocharger rotor is wobbling. See if your alternator belts are loose.

Did you remove just the rod or the entire cylinder? I have had great difficulty removing the pin down in the crotch of the boom on several machines so now I just pull the rod and have the shop fix that loose.

No big deal to put an earlier bed on a '43. It has more steel content.

Welcome. No real suppliers of reproduction steel bed patch panels. Most of us just have a local sheet metal shop fab up what is required. Which generation bed are you working with? I think there are 4 versions that addressed the steel shortage, adding wood pieces.

Please view the thread on these cabs. If you don't go yourself and inspect before loading, you may end up with junk.

Well I apologize for poisoning your thread, I assure you the neighborhood protection cops are not trolling Steelsoldiers looking for trucks to write up. In the military we call it "situational awareness", you must always be aware of what might be coming your way and plan for it. I did not, and...

Am I the only one that thinks it's just a matter of time before the city "neighborhood protection" squad comes and puts a big red sticker on the truck and sends you a certified letter? (I would not know anything about this subject personally)

Back in the day when I was in a similar situation to you, to remove the hydramatic, I placed a heavy pipe from the back of the cab to the middle of the dash and ran a comealong off it, lowering it to the ground. Then to pull the engine, I removed the manifolds, head, and all engine accessories...

See post #39, if you can't find the Niehoff parts, or are not convinced about a civilian option, go with the readily available HMMWV units.

All military batteries with "6" in the nomenclature are the same size (6TL etc). If you desire AGM batteries, the military Hawkers are perfect, I'm running 8 of them currently using a BatteryMinder tender. Sure you can use only two batteries on the FMTV trucks, connecting them properly is...

No sir that is incorrect. That number is the registration number.

Yes, that is where the M1015 EW carrier has the generator drive attached. That's the only answer I know. My 1015 still has all that attached.

I say yes. Looks like heat shrink tubing, which few civilians have access to. A typical civilian repair would be black electrical tape or worse.

I think you are going down the right path. The water dribble into the crankcase should be very obvious once you pressurize the coolant jackets. My money is on liner orings. Sounds like the engine was run without coolant.

Absolutely. The 5 ton is intended to pull the M172A1, but not at the full 25 ton trailer capacity. There should be a data plate on the trailer listing the derate trailer capacity.