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From my understanding of the set that dip switch setting is read by the DCS at power up to let the DCS know if it's in a 1030, 1040, 1050, 1060 or 1070. The DCS then responds accordingly based on that dip switch setting. That's why they immediately knew they were in a 1050. The engine dip...

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I assumed that was the case. Only Distribution A for us.

Other pair would be the Quad Winding Output. Can you find where each of the 12 leads go? Do they go to individual posts on the reconnection block? If so that would good. The TM's for the 1050 are useless for determining that. The DCS might get confused if reconfigured for 120/240. Don't know...

According to the TM PL and the schematic of the rotor there are three of each type. Of course the TM could be wrong

Wow, :eek: The available TM's for this set is very inconsistent! So it may not be a 12 wire head even though the -24P shows 12 wires. The -24P TM dated 1 July 2011 indicates switch S501 is used to change the output phase/voltage and that it has 3 settings for 120/240, 120/208 & 120 and a 12...

Good news is it has a 12 wire gen head. I'd assume with some wiring modifications one could convert it to 120/240.

I revived my effort to make a replacement this weekend. Had to wrap two other board designs first. Hopefully I'll have some good news this July.

Its the round item hanging down from the T fitting near the dead crank switch. Number 7

Have you pressed the TEST button on the Fault Monitor to test all the lamps in the Fault Monitor. If the LED inside K12 is illuminated but the Fault monitor doesn't have lamps illuminated it could mean there is a failure inside the Fault Monitor itself. They do fail. I've repairs a few of...

As a general rule an AC fuse can be used in a DC application as long as the DC voltage is < 50% of the AC voltage rating of the fuse. The one spec'd out in the TM is O.K. to use up to 60 volts DC.

AC and DC current are different animals when it comes to fuses and breakers. Breaking AC current requires different characteristics in breakers and fuses than DC. That why you may see a fuse rated for different AC and DC voltages.

You might want to try wiring a 24 volt light bulb in place of CB1. If the bulb is illuminated you still have a short. You can then disconnect various wires in the 24 V power wiring until the bulb goes dark. That way you'll see when you've found the path with the short and not go thru a bucket...

No they won't. Those are the wrong physical size. You'll need a fuse 1/4" x 1 1/4"

And a whopping 1 in stock

Those in the ebay listing are only rated at 10 amps. The MEP requires one rated for 30 amps.

Yes, you can use a 12 V charger to charge one battery and then the next battery. No need to disconnect anything while charging.

Time to MacGyver a fuse tester. Push the emergency off button IN. Remove the top wire from the Emergency Off switch. Don't let it touch anything. Put S1 in the Prime/Run position. Pull the Emergency Off Button OUT. Hold the wire against one end of the fuse. Touch the other end of the fuse to...