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That info is in the back of the -24 TM. This is for the 802A and 803A

You might want to reseat the wire harness connector on the coolant temp sensor. Then clear the DCS Fault and try running it again.

A bit of an oddity... In your picture R14 is marked as a 50 ohm resistor. Multiple versions of the TM that I've checked indicate it's a 40 ohm resistor. Seems either would work fine in this application. To get a replacement 50 ohm version that fits right in is available here ---> 50 Resistor

R14 would have nothing to do with your batteries being drained. R14 is just a current limiting resistor in the field flashing circuit. I can look tomorrow for a replacement source.

Since the Exciter ohms out OK I'd say the R14 resistor is bad.

Relay Layout

Based on those readings it would appear that R14 is defective. Do a couple of other tests before we condemn R14. With the set OFF and Dead Crank in OFF do the following. 1) Remove the wires from the AC Voltage Regulator terminals 1 & 3. Label if needed so they don't get mixed up. 2) Measure...

OK now take the following DC voltage measurements. Hook you meters negative lead to the ground stud above the relays on the back wall. With the set running check for the following voltages and reply what you measure for each test. 1) Measure the DC voltage at R14 terminal 1 with S1 held in the...

So you do NOT get any AC voltage at the outlet with the set running and S1 in START? Please confirm.

OP had posted " runs like a top everything checks out on gauges except the battery charger gauge shows running on discharge side while running " I assume when they said "everything" it included the AC Voltage gauge.

Guy, Yes, Saw that S1 was mis-wired, set running but no AC

Have you downloaded the -24 TM? It has a test procedure for the AC voltage regulator in it. The set was built with one two voltage regulator systems. TRC or Libby. Be sure to use the correct test procedure in the TM.

Personally I'd suggest checking the rotating diodes next before investing in a DC PS.

I found a manual about the gen head at: Gen Head Manual It talks about using a 12 volt battery with a 30 ohm current limiting resistor to apparently flash the gen head. See PDF page 52 You may want to test the rotating diodes in the gen head. If they are toast the rotor won't generate any...

Very common issue. Had to replace those on my 802. Replace the hose with a piece that's longer so that it's not bent so sharply when installed. This will help with cracking down the road.

Unfortunately the Operations and Maintenance manual has very little info in the Generator Runs but doesn't produce power section. Yes, Yellow and Blue are the two wires to the exciter from the VR. The VR is powered from Red and Red. The VR system relies on "residual magnetism" in the gen head...

The original fuse holder is about $100! I'd suggest finding one rated for similar voltage and current capacity. They are much cheaper. Be sure what you pick can handle the current.

Do you have the paralleling cable?