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You need a special tool to get the pins out. This ---> Tool The pins just snap into the respective housings. Instead of crimping just solder the pins onto the wires. The actual crimpers are hundreds of dollars.

The fuse should be a FNQ-R-3

The MOV IS NOT required to make the generator operator work properly. The MOV is just an add on to help protect the factory AC Voltage from being damaged.

Have you tested the switch to verify it's really bad? The switches very rarely fail in these sets.

J7 is Tyco Part Number 206036-1 Available here for $5.70 ----> J7 P7 is Tyco Part Number 206037-1 Available here for $7.67 ---> P7 It's the same place that has the pins that I posted in an earlier post. Shipping for all the parts should be $4.99 USPS First Class I buy tons of parts from...

Here are the pin locations in J7. The numbers should be embossed in the housing too.

The -24 TM shows where each wire goes to. Here is the image from the TM. Next to each wire number is where the respective wire runs to.

Here are the pin numbers you'd need to purchase and a source that has them in stock For J7 PN 66332-8 Here ---> 66332-8 $1.11 For P7 PN 66331-8 Here ---> 66331-8 $1.23

On P7 J7 pin location 16 is un-used. I'd suggest buying a male and female pin for that connector, cutting the wires going to pin 14 off as close to the connectors as possible, attaching the two new pins to the wires, snapping the new contacts into position 16. Fixed. The pins are about $1.50 each.

Yes as listed in post #10

I see corrostion. Clean it up as best you can. Plug the connector in and turn the locking collar on P7. That will draw P7 and J7 together fully.

Ok, good. Looks like power is not getting to the Emergency off switch. Power us going from Car1 to the Dead Crank Switch since you can dead crank the set. Issue is power is not getting from the dead crank switch S10 to the Emergency off switch S17. The path for that is: S10-3----wire...

Yes, that's MT4. I suspect you may not have been on CR1 for your measurements of it. The stenciling by it can be misleading. CR1-2 is connected to MT4 by wire 112A. Recheck the readings and be sure you are on CR1. The 120 and falling reading was likely millivolts not volts.

Put the Dead Crank switch in NORMAL, Emergency Off pulled out, CB1 pushed in, S1 in Prime/Run. Now check for about 24 volts at the following points in this order. Left side of MT4 Right side of MT4 Right side of CR1 Left side of CR1 Both used terminals on Emergency Off Switch Both terminals of...

I also uploaded a copy to the TM submittal section for incorporation in the MEP-831A TM collection. Attached is a copy too :)

Sent

I'll email you good copies to work from.

Looks like a few missing CRs

Correct. The HT switch in the back of the block is a NO switch.

The two circled terminals are where you measure the PMA voltage.