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You'll need to do some measurements to determine why the generator isn't producing power. With the set running measure the DC voltage across terminals 5 & 6 of the VR with S1 in held in START. It ought to be about 7.6 volts DC. If you get that that voltage then check the AC voltage at the...

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For starters check to be sure there is a diode installed on S5. Only 4 of the 6 small terminals on K1 are used. The lone two small ones are not used.

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OK, that indicates diode CR1 has failed and needs to be replaced. A common failure in these sets. That diodes part number is 1N5406. I have them availble if needed. In a pinch you can install a jumper across the two terminals that CR1 is soldered to to get the set to start.

122A was a typo. Should say 112A. Post updated.

Looks like power is not getting from MT4 terminal 1 to CR1. Wire number 112A is attached to MT4 terminal 1. The other end of wire 112A is soldered to the right post that CR1 is soldered to. You need to check wire 112A to see why power isn't getting from MT4 terminal 1 to the right diode of...

Connect your meters negative lead to chassis ground. Stud on right side of the back wall behind the gauges. CB1 IN, Emergency Switch Pulled Out, Dead Crank in NORMAL. Measure the DC voltage at the following points in this order with S1 in Prime/Run 1) Right big stud on MT4 behind the gauge...

Thank you for the follow up. Great to hear it's running!

Yes Also make item 35 is not a relay like the others in the row. 35 is a Frequency Trip Switch. You should be able to see a small circuit board inside it.

Another method is this, assuming S1 is in Prime/Run. Pull out the Emergency Off button. Let fuel pump run for about 15 seconds. Use a jumper wire to touch S1 terminals 3 & 7. This is the equivalent of moving S1 to the Start position. Once the set starts and oil pressure comes up remove the...

If S1 is still in Prime/Run you ought to be able to start it using the dead crank switch and manually moving the Fuel Solenoid. Pull out the Emergency Off button. Let fuel pump run for about 15 seconds. With one hand fully retract the Fuel Solenoid and hold it there. With the other hand put...

If you need the glow plugs for cold starting you'd need to modify their wiring to get 12v to each heater element.

Another gotcha on the 803. You'll need 24 volts for the fuel solenoid to retract to allow the engine to start.

Like the 831 the 802 can generate it's own 24 volts with the alternator. An 802 will run without batteries. They are only needed to start it or 24 volts in thru the slave port to get it started. The minor hitch is the alternators exciter will need 24 volts momentarily to get it generating 24...

You are correct, there is no typical circuit breaker on the 831 for the power to the lugs. The inverter monitors the current load on L1 & L2 coming out of the inverter. If the current monitor detects current in excess of the rated current it causes the contactor to open. There isn't any way to...

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Relay Panel Circuit Breaker locations inside it

That's the main circuit breaker, CB 201, by the batteries and starting solenoid. What about CB 7 in the Relay Panel RP201? Reset? Missing?

Did it work previously for you? Are the batteries charged? Is the main circuit breaker ON by the batteries? Circuit Breaker #7 in the Relay Panel RP201 powers the "control box" DCS". Is it tripped or missing?