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For #1 I'd suggest measuring the AC voltage across each of the Burden Resistors R10, R11 & R12. Normally the voltage across each will vary from 0 VAC at 0% Load to 5.6 VAC at 100% Load. At 133% Load the AC voltage across them would be 7.5 VAC. By checking each of the voltages you'll narrow down...

PM me your email address. I'll send you the adjustment procedure written by GAC. Better written than the TM.

The two 831's I pick up a few years back both had flakey governor controllers. Both were fresh resets with 2 hrs on them. That's what inspired me to make the replacement governor controllers for the 831's.

I forgot to mention, the 197 volts indicates the engine is running way to fast at no load. 197 VAC corresponds to the RPM for ~110% Load. At no load the voltage should be ~178 VAC which corresponds to ~3,050 RPM At full load the voltage should be ~193 VAC which corresponds to ~3,450 RPM

If K12's LED is ON that means the sets Fault system detected a fault. When that happens 24 volts is removed from the governor controller. When that happens the arm is suppose to swing all the way back and stick to the magnet causing the engine to stop. Your J to H voltage is correct Your 197...

You won't get 24 volts there until the set is running. What happens the moment you flip S1 to RUN 24 volt power is there for a split second. Power gets immediately remove since the fault monitor detects a Low Oil Pressure situation and trips the K12 Fault relay. When you start the set with S1...

If the RPM doesn't change then it sounds like the Governor Controller is defective. Very common. I offer replacement Governor Controllers

Could be that the Governor Controller is faulty and isn't putting out enough current to cause the arm to lift off the magnet. The 10 ohms is correct for the resistance of the actuator. After you start it does the RPM increase as you apply a load to the generator or does it run at the same RPM...

It was designed to run standalone so that it would work in a worse case scenario, no utility power, no internet, no router, off grid cabin, etc. Wasn't set up to integrate onto a network. It will work over WiFi with any device with WiFi and a browser withing WiFi range. (Smart Phone, tablet...

Do you have good battery(s) in the set? Try this. Lift the arm off the magnet. Then move S1 from STOP the RUN position and see if the arm twitch's or not. The Governor Controller (if working properly) sends out a quick pulse of power to the actuator to lift the arm off the magnet prior to...

I just tore down an 831 inverter and indeed there is an 80 amp relay that connects L1 to L2 inside the inverter when in 120 V mode.

On the start switch there should be 24 volts DC on terminals 2,4,6,8 as long as the Dead Crank is in the NORMAL position, the Emergency OFF button is pulled out and breaker CB1 is not tripped. You can start by checking for 24 volts DC power to those terminals on S1.

Post removed based on the great input from Dewie about these units. (Info I was given was apparently incorrect)

So I assume the set starts but immediately shut down due to an overvoltage fault?

Here is the wiring to the switch The switch is available on the big auction site. $20 or less

It's possible. One of the leads going to the hour meter is +24 volts. If it shorted to the panel it would likely trip the CB1 circuit breaker.

Hopefully you replaced the fuse with the correct current rating. V5 isn't a diode. V5 is a surge suppressor. If you tested it like you would a diode it would appear "bad". I'm sure it's not. You ought to recheck the fuse you replaced next to the voltage regulator. See if it's blown. You may...

As mentioned above remove the lifting rings The access door stays also rattle when closed. I put small pieces of of rubber tube at the end of the tracks to apply pressure to the ends of the stays when the doors are closed to stop their rattling.

Exactly correct

I believe the -13 TM for the 831A is incorrect in showing the FL1 switch as normally closed. When the fuel tank is filled FL1 would be open, not closed Adding a jumper from J11-1 to J11-2 would actually constantly signal a Low Fuel situation, not bypass it.