Search results

Almost every mechanic today has a bore scope. I should buy one of the newer models as they are even smaller then mine. I originally bought mine to check the valves in the engines I worked on, but it works on anything that I can fit the eye-piece through.

Your exactly right about opening the bleeder screw before pushing the piston back in it's bore. That was taught to me over 40 years ago in Technical School.

I have to reconsider my last response. I was right the first time. This particular problem is not a U-joint. It might create a little more drag on the steering (unless it was totally seized) and cause you to fight the wheel but it will "NOT" cause the steering problems "He" has been...

Just remember to use "Anti-Sieze" on the threads of the new glow plug. The high-temp "Copper" is the best one to use.

This is about the best Caliper lube out there. We used this on our buses calipers. As far as the brakes being a bad design, well you better be blaming Ford as their the ones who designed them and sold the rights to GM. In fact Ford has had the best brake designs for decades and Chrysler and GM...

That should be just the start of your repairs. You need to check/repair/replace your wheel cylinders, air-pac (or pacs), master cylinder and drums. Then properly adjust everything. While your in there also check your wheel bearings and repack them.

I could see how fuel can get into the oil pan through a bad seal in the booster pump but there is no way it could get into the cylinders without the engine running. The injection lines need high pressure for them to pop the injectors first off. Second the Hydraulic Head will only bypass fuel...

Act civil ? Really that hurts. Your right about the U-joints. My mind was thinking about brakes binding and such. Of course the axles are not spinning but they must still turn when the wheels are moved. This problem can be caused by the U-joints like you mentioned but the most likely culprit is...

Nothing so drastic is needed, just drain and replace the engine oil and filters.

First jack-up the front end and put it on jackstands. Then look for the steering gear sector shaft adjusting screw on the gear. On the top of the gear there is a Allen head screw and jam nut. Loosen the jam nut (5/8") and turn the Allen screw (3/16") clockwise until there is no more movement in...

I was just out enjoying my deuce when I heard a really strange noise coming from the dash. Shortly after that my Tach started acting weird then just stopped working. So now I have joined the ranks of those with busted Tach cables. I already ordered a new one from "Eriks" . Has anyone ever...

I have had a air bubble in my lines that caused my steering to fail when I was braking and turning at the same time. I was coming to a stop from the highway off ramp when my steering assist just stopped. I had to manually turn the wheel and during this time it would fight back and try and turn...

If you keep the radiator cap loose you will loose cooling ability. Now if it is the water pump then it might allow more coolant flow through the radiator but really you should buy a new water pump. Actually these older water pumps are rebuildable by yourself if you can get the water seals...

Drain your engine oil and look for metal fragments.

You probably had this problem for awhile but with the larger tires the torque rods or loose bolts (or whatever is bad) just became worse.

Just buy a new one and save yourself some hassle. Solenoids are really not rebuildable today.

If you have to tap it to get the contacts to free up then you should just replace it as they will stick again. Once they start sticking you must replace the contact ring inside or just get a new one.

Yesterday I adjusted the steering gear sector shaft as there was getting quite a lot of steering wheel movement. I had already checked all linkages and replaced my drag-link ends. So today I went for a drive. Works great now.

One thing I have not seen mentioned is the steering gear. I just today had to adjust my sector shaft as it was a little loose. If your steering gear is worn it can cause this "death wobble" when braking and turning. I had a IHC 1800 series that had a bad steering gear. I bought the truck from...

Just go with an electric fan. There are some NOS 24 volt military ones on eBay right now for under $20.00 . If you want I can give you a link. I plan on installing the two I bought when I get all these other projects done.