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What's a line wrench?

Instead of wondering what kind of amperage is running down Wire 14 I decided to find out. I talked to a techno-wienie I know (Technowienie) and he was skeptical about the 14ga wire carrying 70 amps. Also, whatever switch I use, even if the contacts weld themselves together it's not going to...

Excellent! So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current. I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to...

I was there, poured over that diagram for over an hour now, don't see the neutral switch or wire 14 anywhere in that.

I've downloaded everything I can find- no schematics. Do you have a link?

I still need to paint them before installing, which will require some nice weather. I will be checking (currently raining) but I'm pretty sure it's a ground path, not carrying any current. In other words, the shifter in P or N provide a ground path to allow the starter relay to close. EDIT to...

The key switch I ordered arrived today- fast shipping too. I got this switch and this mounting plate. I'll interrupt the neutral cutout line to prevent the vehicle from starting. They makes two key switches like this, one where the key remains in the lock when switched on, and one that allows...

I had a seep from the fuel filter drain at the spigot - wasn't sure if the valve was leaky or the line was bad. Got in there today and the line was cracked at the clamp. I was going to just snip off the broken bit and reconnect, but the other end was cracked as well. So off to the parts store...

NOTE to self: If the truck won't start after replacing the doghouse.... ...put the shift lever back in Park. :unsure:

Thank you! The .pdf is a major pain in the butt on this machine and will not scroll properly.

I think it's #38 in Figure 232, but that doesn't get one on the truck where I need it. :oops: How do I find one in the real world?

I have some ductwork missing on mine- the HAVC duct that connects the left to the right. I can't help but think the system would be more efficient if they were connected. Problem is, I'm not replacing something that's already there, I'm trying to fill in a gap - I don't know what part and how...

They used to pop up on ebay from time to time. I paid $28 in 2018 for the one in the pics, although the shipping on it was $54. I haven't seen any in a while.

Silly question I know, but the transfer case lever is in H (not H/L) right?

The following is a tutorial on converting the Duke CIED antenna to use in the ham radio bands. You choose which band(s) based on the antenna you put inside, however you should be shopping for a (1) no-groundplane antenna that (2) is a length that fits inside the tube. My CUCV has had several...

VHF / UHF setup questions | SteelSoldiers I have a more in-depth write up somewhere, but it must not be in this forum.

I posted it somewhere.... I'll look for it later.

It's been converted to a no-ground-plane dual band ham radio antenna, and works very well on the CUCV now. I saw that ebay ad, but didn't understand how they plan to ship - other than overnight, something that size and weight is going to cost between $15 and $20 shipping.

Yes, I need one of those. I understand there's a backing plate to reinforce the body and I'm working on getting one. The light-duty mount I have now is not going to support the CIED antenna though.

Huge thanks to rcamacho for helping me into an M1165. :beer: I want to move the CIED antenna from the M1009 over to the vee, but I clearly don't have the proper bracket. There's too much body flex with the antenna even without the riser. I'm not having much luck finding photos of this...