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To disconnect the P6 from J6 you need to open the door to the right of where the output lugs are. P6 will be visible above the intake air deflector immediately below J6 in your picture. To disconnect P6 from J6 turn the knurled collar on P6 closest to the sheet metal to unlock P6. It is usually...

What you are missing is the Contactor. It's a high current relay that sends power from the inverter to the output lugs. The the item with the blue sticker on it below. Be careful. Some of those disconnected wires have 120 and/or 240 volts on them!

Withe the set running and no load applied you should see the following approximate voltages at the regulators terminals. 1 to 2. 1.07 vac 3 to 4 120 vac 5 to 6 5 vDC 7 to 8 69 vac I suspect the issue with your set is that the 120 vac that's suppose to go to the regulator on terminals 4 & 4...

Digikey carries that switch. Switch

From my search's so far it appears it was used to power mining operations equipment.

Here is an explaination of the pins on A2 and what they do. The 24 VDC voltages noted below are approximate values. P4-1 Battle Short This is an input to A2 from S7 the Battle Short Switch. With BS OFF this pin will be at 24 VDC. With BS ON this pin will be at 0 VDC. With BS ON it inhibits A2...

PM me your email. I thought you were someone else! edit: Email with schematics sent! You need to put enough fuel in it to get the Low Fuel fault to go away. Sometimes the flat sticks so you may need to reach in the tank and jiggle the appropriate float. The Low Fuel Fault to trip K12 and...

The schematics in the newer -13 TM are hard to read but the schematic in an older version is easy to read. I always use the older TM when needing to look at the schematic. I just generated a PDF of readable schematics and emailed them to you just now via email.

When pull starting and the batteries are missing or dead you have to manually lift the actuator off the magnet, pin the actuator into the manual start position, hit the compression release valve, move S1 to Run, pull start it. K12's LED will be on once it starts. Once it starts toggle S1...

The Governor Controller A5 module is responsible for making the actuator to lift off the magnet when you start the set when using the electric start. If it's not lifting off the magnet then there may be an issue with the Governor Controller. They are prone to being flakey or go bad. There may...

The reason it won't shut down even with the Emergency Stop button is because the K12 Fault relay is tripped. When it's tripped it kills power to the generator controls including the Governor Controller (GC). Normal shutdown requires the GC to have power and when S1 is moved to STOP that action...

You ought to download the TM's for your set to look part numbers up. It's TM 9-6115-644-24P The PN's relative to that switch are: 5930-01-368-2893 8906K4519 88-21076

OK, problem is that K12's LED is ON meaning the set has detected a Fault. When there is a Fault the set will not allow the contactor to be closed under normal conditions. Are any of the Fault Monitor lamps illuminated? Are you pull starting the set or using the starter?

I don't know what would happen but the TM warns not to change it when running.

Excellent! Glad to help.

Thx for the video and measuring the voltages at the D-E terminals. After studying the video the surge you are experiencing could be triggered by the set failing to throttle down to a no load speed of ~3,050 RPM. You may want to see if there is anything that may be restricting the mechanical...

With the set running the LED inside K15 should be illuminated. The LED's in K12 and K14 should NOT be illuminated. Here are a sequence of test steps to narrow down where the problem is. 1) Battle Short OFF 2) Connect your DC voltmeters negative lead to chassis ground. 3) Set you meter so it...

Can you post a video of the actuator when it's surging? Also if you have a meter measure the DC voltage across terminals D & E on the controller when it's surging. At no load the voltage should be almost 0.0 VDC. Does the DC voltage remain virtually 0.0 or is it bliping up?

1800 RPM for 60 Hz You ought to download the TM's for that set and get familiar with them. They contain info such as what the RPM should be. Frequency meter may not be reading correctly. I'd suggest checking the frequency with something like a Kill-a-Watt meter or other external method.

Good point about a starter. Just ordered one in light of current events.