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The gaskets are available on the big auction site. Just search for "5330-01-390-5185 " They do need the bolt holes modified slightly to fit. When the freezer kicks on does the 803's contactor drop out or does the freezer start & run?

Battle Short bypasses most faults. It does not bypass a Short Circuit fault.

I haven't had a chance to fully flush that out but I suspect 24 volts is supplied by the NC contacts on K12 located to the right of A2 on the schematic. Also it looks like K20 gets latched closed when the field gets flashed. Will try to dig further when I get home later today. Of course Guy...

Working on tracing it out for you

The upside down triangles indicate which pin on the diagnostic connector that signal goes to. See Table 2-10 in the -24 TM for the diagnostic connector pinout.

Looks like it's a 1.5 Kohm 10 Watt wire wound resistor. Length 1.78" Diameter 0.375" Digikey has one that match's the specs above. Resistor Manufacturer Vishay Dale Series RS Packaging Cut Tape (CT) Part Status Active Resistance 1.5 kOhms Tolerance ±1%...

Have you downloaded the -24 TM? It has everything you'd want to know about every wire in the set. The schematic and wiring details are in the back of the TM.

With S1 in the RUN position check M6 Terminal "I" (eye) to be sure ~24 VDC is present. Also check that M7's mounting bracket is connected to chassis ground. If that all checks out then I suspect you have a bad sender. With S1 in the RUN position measure the voltage at the Temp Senders terminal...

Just measured again with S1 held in start. All measurements with respect to chassis ground. K15 to R14 voltage is about 22 VDC. Other side of R14 to CR2 is 8.4 VDC Other side of CR2 to F+ is 7.6 due to CR2 voltage drop. So 24 VDC is never present across F+ & F-

Guy, There is a resistor in the Flash circuit, it's R14. That and the diode CR2 after it will drop the 24 volts to something lower when flashing. I'm going to do another start and see what the flash voltage is at Terminals 5 & 6.

I just measured my 802 a minute ago with no load and got these measurements. Terminals 1 to 2 1.07 VAC Terminals 3 to 4 120 VAC Terminals 5 to 6 5.0 VDC Terminals 7 to 8 69.1 VAC With 45% load the only change was.. Terminals 5 to 6 went up to 6.8 VDC

With the set OFF... For starters I'd suggest checking for continuity from K1-12 to Ground. Then from K1-11 to K8-12. Then from K1-11 to K8-11 Then From K1-11 to K8-8 Then From K1-11 to K8-7 Then From K1-11 to S5-3 Then From K1-11 to S5-2 Then check that CR3 the end with the white strip is...

You can look in the fuel filler opening. Take the screen out. You should see fuel dribbling in on the left side when looking in it.

The Black knob should be locked in the Start position and not moved. Looks like someone messed with the top mechanical governor adjustment screw. The factory locking wire and lead seal are missing. Can't tell if the lower locking wire and seal are missing too. There is an adjustment...

Since you are running it in 240 V mode the most you should pull on one of the 120 legs is ~15 amps at the lugs. The saws startup current is probably tripping it. If you don't need 240 volts then reconfigure the inverter to 120 V mode. !! Only do this with the set shut OFF !! Once you do that...

It doesn't matter which wire you hook to the red or black wire. The Temp gauge not working will have no effect on the generator operation.

10 Amps

As mentioned, any fault lights when it trips? No it is not adjustable. The cap over the green light just unscrews for changing the bulb in the light. Turning it had no affect on the contactor operation. Do you have a fully charged battey(s) in the set? If no Fault lights then I'd suggest...

Sorry bout that, was thinking OP gauge. The Coolant Temp Sensor is MT6 in the schematics. The wire connected to it is 129Axx It goes to Connector P7 pin 2. In turn it's connected to J7 pin 2. J7 pin 2 is connected to wire 129Bxx which then runs to the Temp gauge (M6) "S" terminal.

Those two wires are suppose to be connected to the cut off RED and BLACK wires hanging down from the Oil Pressure Switch in your last two pictures. No they are not related to the Oil Pressure gauge not working. Might want to check the wire from the Oil Pressure Sensor, the goldish thing with...