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You'd want to add a temperature sensor so that if the temperature inside the container gets too high it'll shut down the generator should the fan fail or the inlet get clogged somehow.
Just adding this for others that find this thread and are looking for options.
It was also reported that the Stewart Warner 284M gauge is a drop in replacement too.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?173222-Fuel-Gage-malfunction&highlight=284M
If you add a GFCI outlet like the one you listed be sure to put a circuit breaker or fuse between it and the lugs. The GCFI in the outlet is not a circuit breaker and will not trip if overloaded.
I just spent some time looking at the mechanical governor operation and the two stop screws.
The upper vertical locking bolt sets the governor spring tension and limits the travel of the black STOP RUN knob toward the RUN position.
The lower horizontal locking bolt and with spring pin sets the...
There certainly shouldn't be a gap between the target and the magnet as shown in pic 4 when the set is off and the target is pushed by hand toward the magnet. It should travel all the way to the magnet and stick.
No calk (epoxy?) on my magnets.
I noticed the locking wire is missing from the...
Keep in mind that if one runs the 802 in 120 v mode to get the 52 amps and connecting the trailers L1 & L2 together the Neutral wiring from the generator all the way to the RV breaker panel must be capable of handling the 52 amps.
Normally when feeding 240 single phase from the 802 (L1 & L2...
When the Battery Chargers were manufactured by TRC they used a couple of zip ties to secure the toroid coil to the PCB. Over time due to age and heat the zip ties fracture and allow the toroid to come loose and vibrate about. During use the toroid leads fracture causing the battery charger to...
I just checked my two 831's for broken zip ties.
Unit #1 all good. Zip ties in tact.
Unit #2 - YIKES!!!!
Both zip ties busted and the toroid was just floating around.
Removed some of the old zip ties. The zip tie parts encased in the conformal coat I left. Didn't want to risk damaging...
Possibly...
When you are running at 100% load the voltage across R10, R11 & R12 ought to be ~5.6 VAC based on my calculations.
Or if at 50% load ~2.8 VAC.
Check it if you get a chance the next time you run it at one of those loads.
I too am looking at 12-20" of snow over here in Pepperell, MA.
This from DigiKey appears to be a match. $16
Same dimensions and terminal spacing.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/TB300-12BS/283-4031-ND/1878310
You can download the Technical Manuals from here:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?148936-All-the-TM-s-you-need-to-work-on-the-MEP-804A&highlight=804A
The first one on the left in the second row (-24P) is the one to look up the part number for the radiator hose.
The third one...
If the battery is discharged it will cause issues when running since the battery charger will be struggling to bring the battery voltage up. If there is inadequate voltage the Governor Controller, fuel pump and Fault logic will operate erratically until they get adequate DC voltage.
Re-try...
The schematic in the TM 13&P dated 15 August 2005 has real clear schematics. Get you hands on a copy of that version.
If you can't locate it just PM me your email address and I'll send you a copy of it.
Here is a zoom in on the 2005 version..
The newer 13&P dated 30 April 2010 has lousy...
Another member here picked up a 813A kind of recently.
Experienced the same Low Oil Pressure issue. Turn out his oil pressure switch went bad.
As previously mentioned, be sure to verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge.
Have you adjusted the settings on the SLC10 Governor Control Module per the procedure in the TM?
That being the GAIN, BOOST, STABILITY & SPEED adjustments on the Governor Control Module.
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