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A few people, including me, had problems with leaks at the capped unused port. I found the rubber cap on mine had dried out and cracked causing a coolant leak there.

Inside...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?161305-MEP-803A-Door-Latch

I noticed in your second video on the first start attempt it failed to start. I think you released it from the START position too quickly. You need to keep it in START until it starts AND the oil pressure builds up. No harm in holding it in START for a few seconds longer if needed.

First open the file with Adobe Reader On the far left of the screen may be a tiny arrow about half way down the screen. This.. Click the arrow and you should get this (if it's not already visible) Now click the circled item above and you should get this. By clicking on the items above you...

It works for me.

Yes assuming the defective component(s) inside A1 can be identified. It just a basic printed wiring board with "thru hole" components soldered into it. Looks like this inside..

From your tests K1 seems to be operating properly. When you CLOSE the contactor K1 you get ~24 VAC at the lugs AND the convenience outlet with S1 in the RUN position. You get 120 VAC at the lugs and convenience outlet with S1 in the START position. Regulator operation.... assuming no wiring...

It's a "latching" circuit created by K1, S5 & K8. It has to do with the switch contacts in K1 terminals 11 & 12. After the engine starts and oil pressure is up K1 terminal X has 24 volts supplied to it. When you toggle S5 to CLOSE S5 terminals 5 & 6 connect momentarily connecting K1 terminal...

Does your unit have the ground bus bar installed across L0 and GND? If not then AC voltage measurements must done with respect to L0 unless you are doing a phase to phase voltage AC voltage measurement. When measuring the terminals of K18 you should only see ~ 24 volts DC or ~0 volts DC...

Which "terminals"? These are exactly the voltages expected at these points of K1 assuming they were with respect to L0. This looks like the contactor K1 was open during these measurements. That should be K1 closing. Measured 75 volts where? Yes I believe that would be the cranking relay.

See TB 11-6115-741-24

Maybe, maybe not The tests in the TM verify that flash circuit is working, the quad winding is outputting voltage to power the regulator and the voltage pot is in spec. If one or more of them is not functioning or missing it doesn't imply the regulator is good. It just gives a reason why the...

It's strange you get 37 volts at the convenience outlet but get nothing at he lugs with the contactor close & green light on. Whatever you get from the outlet should be present across L0 & L3. Might want to verify that the 37 volts is present across the regulator terminals 3 & 4. If you went...

Be sure to check the fuse mod fuse for continuity before doing the voltage regulator checks mentioned above.

I see the CR1 text but no diode symbol there in the 803 TM dated 1 September 1993. However when I looked at the TM for the 802 the CR1 text isn't there.

Item #10 below. Double click image to enlarge.

Used the TM -24 for the names, easier to read A1 AC VOLTAGE REGULATOR A2 MULTIFUNCTION INDICATOR A7 FREQUENCY TRANSDUCER A9 FLOAT SWITCH MODULE A10-A13 EMI FILTER B1 CRANKING MOTOR BT1 BATTERY 12V BT2 BATTERY 12V CB1 DC CONTROL POWER CIRCUIT...

Chris, I'd be happy to help out. :-D I'll generate the text file for everything on the left of the drawing and post it. Kurt

The batteries are connected in series so one lead of the charger needs to go to one battery and the other lead of the charger needs to go to the other battery. The positive lead of one of the batteries should be going to the starter. Connect the + lead of the charger to that battery's +...