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If you get 24 volts there then probe both sides of CR1. It's located on a panel on the left side of the back wall behind the gauge panel. There should be 9 parts soldered to the terminals on it. It's the second component from the bottom. Measure the voltage on both sides of CR1. Should be 24...

Assuming you made contact with pin T then it's possible the CR1 diode is bad or missing. Carefully probe MT4 on the bottom right behind the gauge panel. Does it have ~24 volts on it?

Here is the pinout of the diagnostic connector. Doubleclick to enlarge. There are pins with upper case and lower case lettering. Be sure to use the upper case pins in most cases when probing. It can be found in TM 9-6115-641-24. If you look closely at your connector you should see tiny letters...

Correct. That item was no longer available and the OP asked for a moderator to delete the post.

Don't give up. You just have a simple electrical problem. Do you have a voltmeter or 24 volt test light handy? If so you may be able to narrow down the problem using the diagnostic connector. You may need to use a small nail to stick into the pins on the diagnostic connector to make contact...

I built a simple cart out of 4 pieces of 2x6, 1/4 bolts and 4 casters. Works great for wheeling it around my garage and outside when I need to use it. The 802 "locks" onto it and can't slide off. I used my open deck car trailer to bring the 802 home and built the dolly for it afterwards.

On the NH border in Pepperell.

Biz, I'm just north of you in Mass. Sometimes the flaps get stuck open because they are bent, were removed or were torn off by accident. Once that happens rain/snow can easily get into the muffler and run down into the cylinders. For me I picked up a 1997 with about 1,400 hrs on it. Had to do...

There is one available on the big auction site. $90

There's one available on the big auction site for $332.45

For the voltage meter issue exercise both the AM-VM switch AND the voltage reconnection switch inside the control box. Both control power sent to the voltmeter.

Open the document with Adobe reader. Scroll down to the schematic of interest. Zoom in on the schematic so it fills the screen. Select Print In the Pages to Print section select Current Page Bit further down click the down arrow for More Options Click Current View Near the bottom of the screen...

My 802 had the 3 ground rods in the clamps under the edge of the skid. The wire and couplers were in the door with the Aux Fuel hose. Here is a source someone posted a while back for the ground rod kit. No driver though. Just the rods, couplers and ground wire...

I suspect they are there to prevent the nuts from getting lost when they are fully unscrewed from the stud. A better picture... (click to zoom in)

Actually it's the "Fuse Mod" and yes you have it. :) You can tell by the fuse in mounted to the left of the Voltage Regulator. Looks like a nice unit.

Those wire items go on the output terminal lugs.

It's here as of now: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162301-MEP-831A-simple-Governor-setup-and-adjustment-instructions

As of now it can be found here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162301-MEP-831A-simple-Governor-setup-and-adjustment-instructions

Yup a bolt in mine.

I have seen a cap that would work at an autoparts store. To fix mine I just used a short length of heater hose slid over the port, secured it with a SS hose clamp. Then I plugged the other end of the heater hose with short piece of steel rod (part of a large bolt) and secured it in place with...