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Both fuses would blow out at under the same overload condition. The voltage rating of the fuse has to do with how much voltage potential the open fuse can withstand without flashing over and re-energizing the compromised load circuit. So the better fuse would be the 600V rated one.

MEP-802A fuel consumption 0.55 gal / hr MEP-803A fuel consumption 0.99 gal / hr Almost twice as much. In a pinch I'd want my fuel supply to last as long as possible. One problem with having a generator too large is wet stacking due to too light a load on it.

Almost all. The short circuit safety and the E-Stop still operate in Battle Short.

If you want to us a 12 volt charger to charge both batteries at the same time you MUST disconnect the batteries from all the generator cables. Then you can connect the two 12 volt batteries in "parallel". IE connect one battery's + to the other battery's +, then the one battery's - to the...

The link from Hard Head applies to issues and fix for the 805A/806A/815A/816A generators and NOT the 802/803. Here is my understanding with the issue with the 802/803.... Their A1 voltage regulators are powered by the quad winding. The quad winding provides AC power to a diode bridge inside...

The max resistance that I get on the voltage Pot on my 802 is 2.111 K ohms I suspect if you remove one of the Pot's wire from the voltage regulator terminal 1 or 2 the max resistance measured at the Pot will probably be ~5 K. The internal resistance of the voltage regulator is in parallel with...

Hint: They are almost at the end of the TM

Nice! I wish I was closer to Atlanta. You ought to set the voltage to 240 not 220. 240 is the actual voltage needed to feed your house.

You'll need to use toggle switch's with a higher current rating. Your individual 4,500 watt elements are going to draw 18.75 amps. You ought to select switch's that have a safety margin above the nominal current being drawn.

Can you post up a schematic of how you have the generator, the inverter/charger and the load panel are wired?

Ah... Once the engine is started you need to toggle the AC Circuit Interrupter switch to the CLOSED (up) position and then release it. This should cause the light directly above the switch to come on. This indicates the AC contactor has closed and power should now be available at the lugs...

Did it output power OK previously or is this the first attempt to use it? Any Fault Lights? Do you have power to the convenience outlet? Does it correctly show voltage on the AC voltmeter? Is the Contactor Closed and the Contactor Light illuminated? With the reconnect switch in the 120/208...

To get to K1 you have to remove the top cover item 13 below. K1 is located behind the bulkhead that the voltage regulator, burden resistors etc are bolted to. Once item 13 is removed look over on the left behind where the resistors are mounted and you will find K1. The big black cube seen below.

Item 10 below is the float switch. The upper float is for the aux pump operation. The next components is A9 the Float Switch Module. Located here on wall by fuel tank. Schematic from TM for Aux Fuel Pump How to test the Float Switch Module How to test the Float Switch Replacement...

In the fuel tank is a dual float switch setup. The lower float is for the low fuel light, the upper float is for the Aux Fuel Pump. I suspect the upper float may be stuck in the down position and not rising up when the tank is nearly filled to shut off the pump.

Correct on both accounts

Here is the table from the TM that shows what the load meter and voltmeter read depending on the position of the AM-VM switch and the voltage reconnect switch. (Click on the image to expand it)

The switch to the left of the voltage regulator. Should look like this (my 802)

The same cap was cracked and leaking on my 802 when I first got it home. Instead of replacing it with a cheap rubber cap I used a very short piece of heater hose, slid it on, clamped it with a stainless clamp and then plugged it short round piece of metal stock and clamped that it place with...

I would assume so. Products are normally forward compatible. I just ran the compiler selecting both "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega2650" and "Arduino Mega ADK" It compiled just fine selecting either of the target devices. The UNO version has less I/O and less memory than the Mega's. Programming...