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That reminds me, how you doing lately ? Hope your doing OK.

I had a few hives for years then the "sickness" hit me and the whole hive died ! I haven't had the stomach to do all that work again and see it all go down the drain. Not until they come up with an answer for the "colony collapse disease" . Oh and I worked on the deuce ! Have to keep on topic !

If you have a Leece-Neville #A0014630JA alternator you could just replace the stator and have a 100 amp unit. Nothing else is required. So if this alternator that was tested is not a model #A0014630JA then we might have something.

To bad, as those are great designs you have for the gauges.

As far as using a battery equalizer I believe that is a great idea. I actually have a "Vanner" unit myself. They are used on all our busses and hold up extremely well.

I'm not sold on the idea that all the alternators are 100 amp units. There is a 100 amp stator you could buy (which I did ) for this alternator. By just installing the stator you would have a 100 amp unit. The problem is there is three different models of alternators used and I have the wrong...

The clear tubing looks pretty cool. Though you really didn't need to worry about air in the lines as those are the return lines. It will not tell you if your injection lines have air in them.

Juergen, do you have any plans to sell these ? I for one would like to buy a couple ! It would be nice though if you could make them from a little thicker gauge metal. Just saying this could be a good little money maker for you.

These pictures remind me of when I went to trade school in Arizona. The sky in the morning and night was always so beautiful ! Here in Washington if we even see the sky it is just a grey blob up there. Right now as I'm writing this it is pouring down rain ! It's like a cow pissing on a flat...

Our you sure Garrett ? Mine says 24volt 60 amps. Now if it truly is a 100amp's that would be great ! but I am a little skeptical about that claim. Who said it any way ? and where is this information ? I would love to check it out.

That's interesting. Mine doesn't have that, it's just a straight shaft and the bolt clamps the housing.

A few more pictures.

I couldn't find any of the hitch installation but I did have these showing the back-up lights and my water/fuel carriers. They all show the hitch though.

That's the size our busses use. It takes a lot of power to run them. I would just love to find a 100amp unit since I went with this electric winch, plus all the lights I added. You wouldn't have one laying around would you Chris ?

In this picture you see the Jam nut on the shaft. Loosen this nut and you will be able to slide the pedal up or down. This is the brake pedal but it's the same for the clutch pedal.

One thing most people don't understand is that grease becomes almost a liquid when hot. So when you repack the bearings you do need to add grease all around the hub. I have seen bearings burnt-up because the mechanic thought he only needed grease on the bearing itself. When that bearing got hot...

Just remember to use "ceramic" pigtails. This light makes a lot of heat. I melted my first ones, then went and bought the ceramic plug and they have worked great ever since.

Is it cast-iron or steel ? If it's steel it could be your bearing cages. If it's cast-iron then it's the housing itself. Either way you need to find out what went wrong in there. You don't want to be driving down the high-way and have something "give" . It would not make your day !

Don't you just hate those "unreasonable" bosses !

Take the truck to a professional sand blaster. They can blast out that bed in under one hour. Then you can use some "Herculiner" after spraying down a good primer first.