Search results

Thanks for reposting this thread ! I never saw it and now I think I need to buy me a "Ready Welder" !

OK how much ? I want one of each !!!

We are on topic. We are talking about winches and winch accessories or was that "propane and propane accessories" ? STOP that Bobby !!!

Yes the NP205 was a superior transfer-case to all those chain-drive units. The problem was the weight and only 2:1 gear reduction. I know there are after-market gears you can buy now, but the factory never offered them.

I bought this nice stainless steel sprayer and it works great to bleed the brakes. I usually let the brake fluid gravity bleed for a 1/2 hour then put the pressure can on to finish the job. Saves a ton of brake fluid this way.

Yeah, we need pictures ! About the differences between the WARN and Smitty Built. The WARN snatch block uses roller bearings and the Smitty Built uses a bronze bushing. For the limited amount of use it would get I'm sure the Smity built would work in a pinch. I know the WARN is rated for "8 tons...

There is already one on the market.

Here are some good guidelines to go by.

Yes the line (wire rope) is halved each time you add a new snatch block, but the block themselves must be able to handle the increase in pull. Also the angle of the lines makes a huge difference. There are some great PDF's for free download explaining all of this.

There is actually a special oil the military uses. It costs about $15.00 a quart and you must buy it in 5 gallon buckets. I tried to find a civilian equivalent but there is none available. In all mine I just use Synthetic grease. It works great. They also make the grease in a spray form.

Use your shop air to fill the tanks. That way your not waiting on the compressor. As soon as you have good oil pressure start driving it. You can drive conservatively until the engine reaches operating temperature, then get on it hard !

Both my good buddies had 1969 Chargers. Did you know that the trunk emblem is of a turbine ? Originally the Charger was going to have a Turbine engine made in Italy. The US government basically refused Chrysler to bring in an engine from Italy as the US doesn't allow foreign engines in it's cars...

Good job Garrett ! You gotta have tunes !

If you used a good assembly lube on all the bearing surfaces and cam lobes then after you get full oil pressure it's OK to get on the engine and make it go. Remember your crank and rods are actually riding on a layer of oil, not the bearings themselves.

All modern diesels have an electric shut-off solenoid at the injection pump. I was going to retrofit mine with a Cummins fuel shut-off solenoid but used the manual valve instead as there where clearance problems with the solenoid. You can pick-up these solenoids new for about $35.00 . I bought 2...

As far as replacing my "Fuel Density Compensator" just because it might cause a problem, I don't think so. There is a valid reason to keep it on the truck. I plan on exploring ways to prevent any fuel and oil mixing. Now if tomorrow for some reason the FDC starts to leak into the oil then I will...

Wrong side. The panel you open is the drivers side.

No. The hose is insulated by all that rubber and Kevlar. Since diesel fuel will not flash burn like the low temperature of gasoline I wouldn't worry about it. I have fueled running trucks and equipment since I was in my teens. Also at the transit agency the busses are not shutdown to refuel...

LOL !!! :lol:

This Tulsa winch is a pretty old model. I would think twice before installing it in my truck. The newer ones come with much better mounting pads too.